Santenay Premier Cru, Beauregard, Edouard Delaunay, 2021
Santenay Premier Cru, Beauregard, Edouard Delaunay, 2021
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2036
Founded in 1893, the house of Delaunay became a prestigious and prolific estate and was one of the sole distributors of DRC and exclusively of La Romanée until the 1940s. Sold to Jean Claude Boisset in the 1990s, the maison was reborn in 2017 when winemaker and fifth generation, Laurent Delaunay, purchased back the name, and winery and cellars next to the family home Château de Chaumont. Laurent and wife Catherine have accessed some excellent vineyard sites across the Cote d’Or, including a gem in Petit-Vougeots, and right up to Griottes-Chambertin.
The wines have been highly praised by critics, Club Members and the Honest Grapes team, and the portfolio encompasses everything from humble Aligote to Chambertin Grand Cru. With their commitment to excellence and remarkable vineyard sources, House Delaunay has regained its prominence in the world of Burgundy wines.
"From a well-drained, nicely exposed limestone-spiked site on the same level of the slope as Chassagne, there are plenty of stones here for mineral drive but the aspect means the fruit ripens well and is always harvested early. 10% whole bunches used and 20% new oak. “The most affordable red Burgundy premier cru” is how Laurent convincingly sells this wine. The aromas are up front, a combination of red and black plums and cherry tobacco and a hint of polish and pencil lead. Palate is very juicy, with bright summer fool fruits and the sponge to match, a hint of star anise, plus crunchy peppery fresh tannins. What’s not to like?"
Tom Harrow, Head Wine Guru
The 2021 vintage across Burgundy produced wines with real structure and acid backbone, and this Beauregard is no different — it is very much alive right now but has the architecture to develop. Over the next two to three years, the peppery tannins will soften and the fruit will start knitting more tightly with that mineral, pencil-lead quality. By 2028-2030, expect a more composed and savoury character to emerge — less exuberant, more considered. It should hold comfortably until around 2034-2036, after which the fruit will begin to fade faster than the structure. Drink it on the way up rather than waiting for a plateau that may be brief.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceBright, clear ruby with a light cherry rim — classic 2021 in its translucency.
NoseRed and black plum upfront, with cherry tobacco and a pencil-lead quality that gives it real interest. There is a faint polish to it — beeswax, perhaps — that speaks to the whole-bunch component sitting quietly in the background.
PalateJuicy and lively, with summer fruit — think strawberries and red plums with real crunch rather than anything overripe or jammy. A flick of star anise and a peppery freshness carry through to the tannins, which are grippy but fine-grained, more energising than austere.
FinishClean and mineral, with that limestone-driven bite holding the fruit in check long after the glass is down.
Overall impressionThe most accessible red Burgundy premier cru on the market right now, and it makes no apology for that.
Food Pairings
In Santenay itself, this kind of wine would be poured alongside a slow-braised boeuf bourguignon or a generous plate of jambon persillé from the market at Beaune. Locals would think nothing of opening it with a roast poulet de Bresse, where the wine's acidity cuts through the richness and its fruit lifts the whole thing. A wedge of Époisses or Comté — the kind of cheese that finishes every proper Burgundian meal — works beautifully here too. On a summer evening, cold charcuterie and a terrine de campagne would not be turned away.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at around 15-16°C — cool enough to keep the freshness but not so cold it shuts down that red fruit. This does not need decanting in the traditional sense, but 20-30 minutes in a carafe will open it up and let the whole-bunch character breathe. A standard Burgundy bowl — wide enough to let the aromatics gather — is the right glass for the job.
The Beauregard premier cru sits on well-drained limestone-rich soils at mid-slope, on roughly the same contour line as the vineyards of neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet. The high stone content gives the wine a distinct mineral edge and keeps yields naturally in check, while the aspect is favourable enough that fruit ripens well and picking can happen early — which in Pinot Noir terms means you keep the freshness. It is a relatively understated site by Côte de Nuits standards, but that is precisely what makes it interesting: it earns its character quietly.
Santenay is the southernmost village appellation of the Côte de Beaune, and it is one of those places that serious Burgundy drinkers know and casual ones overlook — which keeps the prices honest. The premiers crus here sit on limestone-driven slopes and produce reds with real structure and mineral bite rather than the plush, perfumed style you get further north in Volnay or Pommard. Beauregard is one of the more distinguished of those premiers crus, offering genuine complexity without demanding the kind of cellar investment that a village-level Gevrey or Chambolle now requires. Think of Santenay as Burgundy's quietly confident underdog.
The 2021 growing season in Burgundy started badly and got worse before pulling off one of wine's great escapes. Spring frost in April devastated vineyards across the Côte d'Or, followed by a summer that alternated between biblical downpours and scorching heat. Many producers lost 50% or more of their crop to the frost alone, then watched hail batter what remained in some unlucky villages. By August, with rot creeping through rain-soaked vineyards, even the most optimistic vignerons were writing off the vintage.
What emerged from this chaos surprised everyone: wines with remarkable freshness and purity, if you can find them. The tiny yields meant those grapes that survived were intensely concentrated, while the September sunshine saved the day with perfect ripening conditions. We find the reds show beautiful fruit clarity without heaviness, drinking with an immediacy that makes them irresistible now but promising a decade or more of evolution. The whites are particularly stunning, with a mineral intensity that cuts through their richness. Yes, there's not much 2021 Burgundy about, and yes, it's expensive, but this is one of those vintages where disaster bred greatness.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Red and black plums, cherry tobacco, and a pencil-lead mineral quality on the nose. The palate is juicy and fresh — summer fruits with a peppery, crunchy finish rather than anything heavy or overripe. It is lively, precise, and very easy to enjoy.
Is it worth cellaring?
Yes, modestly. This is not a wine to lock away for a decade, but three to five years in a decent cellar will bring out more savoury, mineral complexity. The 2021 vintage has the acid backbone to age gracefully, and Beauregard is a serious enough site to justify the patience.
What food should I serve with it?
Classic Burgundian fare works best: braised beef, roast chicken, jambon persillé, or a decent terrine. It also holds its own alongside a strong Comté or a ripe Époisses if you are going the cheese route. Essentially, if it would appear on a bistro menu in Beaune, it will work here.
How should I serve it?
Slightly cool — around 15-16°C. Give it 20-30 minutes in a carafe if you are opening it straight from the cellar. A standard wide-bowled Burgundy glass is ideal; it gathers the aromatics without letting too much air in too quickly.
Why Santenay rather than a more famous Burgundy village?
Because Santenay premier cru at this price point is one of the genuine bargains left in Burgundy. Laurent Delaunay himself calls this the most affordable red Burgundy premier cru on the market, and he is not wrong. You are getting real limestone-driven character, a serious site, and a carefully made wine without paying the premium that comes with a famous postcode further north.
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