Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru 'Les Millandes', Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut, 2021
Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru 'Les Millandes', Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut, 2021
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
- Biodynamic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2038
Despite Neal Martin's yet-to-be-scored latest vintage, it wasn't surprising to see the Sigauts being touted as "Burgundy's Next Big Thing" a few months after Martin sampled the 2020s. After a breakthrough vintage, their legacy has been solidified - even the notoriously hard-to-please critic Allen Meadows of Burghound had nothing but praise for these 2021s.
Being specialists in Chambolle Musigny, Anne and Hervé possess an innate understanding of the vines, resulting in well-defined wines that are elegantly fragrant and bursting with sweet fruit flavours. From the village wines to the senior crus, they have captured the signature floral and sensuous character of Chambolle with remarkable elegance and finesse. Grapes are farmed using biodynamic methods, 100% destemmed, and the wines are unfiltered and unfined.
Due to the decreased volume of Burgundy's 2021 vintage, Anne and Hervé made the tough decision to reject 30-50% of the harvest - a choice that has paid off handsomely, as the results are truly outstanding.
Currently showing its primary fruit character beautifully, but this wine has the structure to develop for many years. Over the next 3-5 years, we expect the vibrant berry fruit to integrate with earthy, mushroom-like secondary flavours whilst the tannins continue to soften. The wine should reach its peak drinking window around 2030-2035, when the fruit and earth elements will be in perfect harmony. With proper storage, it should hold at this level until the early 2040s, gradually developing tertiary complexity before slowly beginning its decline.
What the critics say:
"Soft notes of wood frame cool, pure and sauvage-inflected red and dark berry fruit and warm earth nuances. The dense, attractively rich and vibrant middleweight flavors possess fine detail on the balanced, precise and stunningly long finish that displays focused power. Moderate patience advised. **Sweet spot, Outstanding ♥**"
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep ruby with a vibrant, youthful core and hints of purple at the rim.
NosePure red and dark berry fruit emerges alongside warm earth and subtle wood spice. There's a wild, sauvage quality that speaks to the vineyard's character, with floral undertones beginning to develop. The aromatics are precise and focused, showing excellent concentration.
PalateDense and attractively rich with vibrant middleweight flavours that show fine detail throughout. The fruit is sweet and concentrated, balanced by excellent acidity and well-integrated tannins. There's a sense of focused power that builds towards the back palate.
FinishStunningly long with balanced precision and a mineral thread that carries the fruit beautifully.
Overall impressionA wine that combines immediate appeal with serious aging potential, showing the Sigauts' mastery of their craft.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this would be the perfect companion to coq au vin made with the same wine, where the earthy mushroom and herb flavours echo the wine's own complexity. Local chefs would pair it with boeuf bourguignon, slow-cooked until tender, or perhaps a selection of regional cheeses like Époisses or Chaource. Game birds like pigeon or duck breast with a cherry gastrique would showcase the wine's fruit and structure beautifully. Even simpler preparations like roasted chicken with herbs from the garden would allow the wine's elegance to shine through.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-17°C to allow the fruit and mineral elements to express themselves fully. We'd recommend decanting for 30-45 minutes to help integrate the flavours, though it's drinking well from the bottle now. Use large Burgundy bowls to concentrate the aromatics whilst giving the wine room to breathe. If you're opening it young, consider double-decanting to soften any firm edges.
Les Millandes sits on the eastern slope of Morey-Saint-Denis, where limestone-rich soils meet patches of clay and gravel. The vineyard benefits from excellent drainage whilst retaining enough moisture to prevent stress, creating wines with both power and finesse. The cooler exposition helps preserve the natural acidity that gives these wines their characteristic balance and aging potential. This terroir produces Pinot Noir with a distinctive mineral backbone that anchors the fruit beautifully.
Morey-Saint-Denis sits between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, often overshadowed by its famous neighbours but producing wines of exceptional quality and character. The appellation is known for combining the structure of Gevrey with the elegance of Chambolle, creating Pinot Noirs that are both powerful and refined. Premier Cru vineyards here offer excellent value compared to similar sites in neighbouring villages. The commune's diverse terroir produces wines that age gracefully, developing complex secondary aromas over decades.
The 2021 growing season in Burgundy started badly and got worse before pulling off one of wine's great escapes. Spring frost in April devastated vineyards across the Côte d'Or, followed by a summer that alternated between biblical downpours and scorching heat. Many producers lost 50% or more of their crop to the frost alone, then watched hail batter what remained in some unlucky villages. By August, with rot creeping through rain-soaked vineyards, even the most optimistic vignerons were writing off the vintage.
What emerged from this chaos surprised everyone: wines with remarkable freshness and purity, if you can find them. The tiny yields meant those grapes that survived were intensely concentrated, while the September sunshine saved the day with perfect ripening conditions. We find the reds show beautiful fruit clarity without heaviness, drinking with an immediacy that makes them irresistible now but promising a decade or more of evolution. The whites are particularly stunning, with a mineral intensity that cuts through their richness. Yes, there's not much 2021 Burgundy about, and yes, it's expensive, but this is one of those vintages where disaster bred greatness.
FAQs
What does this Premier Cru taste like?
Pure red and dark berry fruit with warm earth and subtle spice, showing both power and elegance typical of top Morey-Saint-Denis.
When should I drink this 2021?
It's drinking beautifully now but will reward patience - we think it will be at its peak from 2030 until 2040.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Classic Burgundian dishes like coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon, roasted game birds, or aged regional cheeses would be perfect matches.
Should I decant this wine?
Yes, we'd suggest decanting for 30-45 minutes to help integrate the flavours and show the wine at its best.
How does this compare to neighbouring villages?
Morey-Saint-Denis combines the structure of Gevrey-Chambertin with the elegance of Chambolle-Musigny, often offering better value than its famous neighbours.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely - this has the concentration and balance to age gracefully for 15-20 years, developing beautiful secondary complexity over time.
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