Marsannay 'En Combereau', Edouard Delaunay, 2021
Marsannay 'En Combereau', Edouard Delaunay, 2021
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2034
Founded in 1893, the house of Delaunay became a prestigious and prolific estate and was one of the sole distributors of DRC and exclusively of La Romanée until the 1940s. Sold to Jean Claude Boisset in the 1990s, the maison was reborn in 2017 when winemaker and fifth generation, Laurent Delaunay, purchased back the name, and winery and cellars next to the family home Chateau de Chaumont. Laurent and wife Catherine have accessed some excellent vineyard sites across the Cote d’Or, including a gem in Petit-Vougeots, and right up to Griottes-Chambertin.
The wines have been highly praised by critics, Club Members and the Honest Grapes team, and the portfolio encompasses everything from humble Aligote to Chambertin Grand Cru. With their commitment to excellence and remarkable vineyard sources, House Delaunay has regained its prominence in the world of Burgundy wines.
This 2021 is in its sweet spot now, with primary blackcurrant fruit perfectly balanced by fresh acidity and gentle tannins. Over the next 2-3 years, expect the fruit to integrate further while developing subtle earthy complexity typical of Côte d'Or Pinot Noir. The wine should hold its charm until around 2034, though it may begin to lose some of its youthful vibrancy after 2030. Unlike grander Burgundies, Marsannay is meant for relatively early drinking pleasure rather than decades of cellaring.
What the critics say:
"Cask sample. Very pale garnet. Light scent of blackcurrants. Really nice purity and a good line of fruit. Quite a bit of acidity but – just – not too much. Some delicacy. Could only be burgundy!"
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale garnet with the translucent rim that marks true Burgundy.
NoseLight but pure blackcurrant fruit rises from the glass with typical Burgundian restraint. There's a mineral freshness underneath, like wet limestone after rain. No heavy oak here - just clean, precise fruit that could only come from Pinot Noir on the Côte d'Or.
PalateThe wine flows with elegant lightness, but there's real substance beneath the delicacy. Bright acidity carries the blackcurrant fruit beautifully, while fine tannins provide just enough grip. This is Burgundy's magic - intensity without weight, complexity without confusion.
FinishClean and mineral-driven, with the fruit lingering alongside a chalky limestone note.
Overall impressionClassic Marsannay that proves you don't need grand cru prices for authentic Burgundy soul.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this style of elegant red Marsannay would grace tables alongside coq au vin made with the local Pinot Noir, or perhaps beef bourguignon when the mood calls for something richer. The wine's bright acidity makes it perfect with the region's creamy époisses cheese, while its delicate fruit won't overwhelm classic preparations of rabbit with mustard sauce. Local bistros would serve this with simple roasted chicken or duck breast, letting the wine's pure fruit complement rather than compete with the food.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 15-16°C to preserve the wine's delicate fruit and bright acidity - any warmer and you'll lose the elegance that defines good Marsannay. No need to decant this beauty; the wine is drinking perfectly now and benefits from being poured straight from the bottle. Use Burgundy bowls if you have them, but any generous red wine glass will showcase the wine's subtle aromatics and pure fruit expression.
The En Combereau vineyard sits in Marsannay, at the northern gateway to Burgundy's Côte d'Or, where limestone and clay soils provide the classic foundation for Pinot Noir. The slightly cooler climate here compared to villages further south helps preserve the bright acidity that defines Marsannay, while the limestone bedrock contributes the mineral backbone that anchors the wine's delicate fruit. This terroir produces wines with immediate charm but enough structure to age gracefully for several years.
Marsannay is Burgundy's northernmost village appellation, often called the gateway to the Côte d'Or, and the only Burgundy village allowed to make red, white, and rosé under the same AOC. The wines here offer authentic Burgundy character at more accessible prices than their famous neighbours to the south. While lighter in body than Gevrey-Chambertin or Chambolle-Musigny, the best Marsannay reds display the same limestone-driven elegance and pure Pinot Noir expression that defines great Burgundy.
The 2021 growing season in Burgundy started badly and got worse before pulling off one of wine's great escapes. Spring frost in April devastated vineyards across the Côte d'Or, followed by a summer that alternated between biblical downpours and scorching heat. Many producers lost 50% or more of their crop to the frost alone, then watched hail batter what remained in some unlucky villages. By August, with rot creeping through rain-soaked vineyards, even the most optimistic vignerons were writing off the vintage.
What emerged from this chaos surprised everyone: wines with remarkable freshness and purity, if you can find them. The tiny yields meant those grapes that survived were intensely concentrated, while the September sunshine saved the day with perfect ripening conditions. We find the reds show beautiful fruit clarity without heaviness, drinking with an immediacy that makes them irresistible now but promising a decade or more of evolution. The whites are particularly stunning, with a mineral intensity that cuts through their richness. Yes, there's not much 2021 Burgundy about, and yes, it's expensive, but this is one of those vintages where disaster bred greatness.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Pure blackcurrant fruit with bright acidity and delicate elegance - classic Burgundian Pinot Noir character without the weight of bigger appellations.
When should I drink this wine?
It's drinking beautifully now and will remain at its best until around 2033, though it's designed for relatively early pleasure rather than long cellaring.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Perfect with roasted chicken, duck breast, or beef bourguignon - the bright acidity and delicate fruit complement rather than compete with classic French cooking.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 15-16°C in Burgundy bowls or generous red wine glasses - no need to decant, just pour and enjoy its pure fruit expression.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
While it will develop subtle complexity over the next few years, Marsannay is meant for drinking pleasure rather than long-term cellaring - enjoy it while the fruit is bright and vibrant.
How does this compare to other Burgundy villages?
Marsannay offers authentic Côte d'Or character at more accessible prices - lighter than Gevrey-Chambertin but with the same limestone-driven elegance and pure Pinot Noir expression.
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