Marsannay En Combereau, Edouard Delaunay, 2020
Marsannay En Combereau, Edouard Delaunay, 2020
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2036
Laurent set about to catapult these wines into the stratosphere and after sweeping up at the IWC 2020 awards for their incredible 2019s, one could argue, they may have reached space itself! They were in fact the biggest winner at the awards, picking up 8 trophies, Red Winemaker of the Year (for the wonderful Christophe Briotet), as well as 15 gold, 30 silver and 7 bronze medals. It is with great pleasure therefore that we can offer these brilliant wines.
Every cuvée is treated individually, without a set formula for quantity of new oak, or amount of whole bunches used, which allows each wine to offer a true and deeply satisfying expression of the individual terroirs and vintage. What we have is absolutely everything we love about Burgundy. A real sense of place.
"From a single calcareous clay rich vineyard just south of the village but quite high on the slope and on the same level as Fixin. Aged in one and two year barrels previously housing the estate’s Hospices de Beaune wines.
Lightly medicinal, smoky aromas, like an 17th Century apothecary might smell, and also raspberry and blackcurrant leaf. There is a touch of sour cherry alongside the earthy red berry fruits on the palate and some nice sinews, provided by lapsang tea tannins, leading to a salted liquorice finish. I’m always a fan of this wine which punches well above its weight and offers genuine interest rather than generic Pinot character."
Tom Harrow, Wine Guru
This 2020 is showing beautifully now with its primary fruit well-integrated and the distinctive medicinal and herbal notes fully developed from its élevage in seasoned barrels. The tea-like tannins should continue to soften over the next 3-4 years, allowing the earthy red berry character to become more prominent whilst retaining that signature salted liquorice finish. By 2033-2034, expect the smokiness to meld further with the fruit, creating a more unified but equally interesting wine. After 2036, the distinctive herbal character may begin to fade, though the wine's good structure suggests it will remain pleasant for several years beyond.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceMedium ruby red with garnet highlights and good clarity.
NoseDistinctive medicinal smokiness reminiscent of an old apothecary, layered with fresh raspberry and blackcurrant leaf aromatics. There's an intriguing herbal quality that speaks to the terroir's limestone-clay composition and the wine's careful élevage in seasoned oak.
PalateBright sour cherry fruit anchors the palate, supported by earthy red berry flavours that show the clay soils clearly. The tannins have a distinctive tea-like quality, particularly lapsang souchong, providing proper structure without overwhelming the fruit. Good mineral backbone runs through the mid-palate.
FinishDistinctive salted liquorice character lingers with herbal notes and a touch of smoky minerality.
Overall impressionThis is Pinot Noir with genuine interest and character, showing true sense of place rather than generic varietal flavours.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this style of Marsannay would traditionally accompany coq au vin made with the same local Pinot Noir, the wine's herbal character complementing the dish's aromatic herbs and mushrooms. Local charcuterie like jambon persillé (parsley ham) pairs beautifully with the wine's medicinal notes, whilst the classic escargots de Bourgogne find harmony with the earthy, mineral qualities. The tea-like tannins work wonderfully with regional cheeses like Chaource or young Époisses. Game birds like partridge or quail, simply roasted with thyme, echo both the wine's herbal character and its Burgundian roots.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 15-16°C to preserve the delicate herbal aromatics whilst allowing the earthy fruit character to show properly. No need to decant this wine as it's drinking beautifully now, though 30 minutes of breathing in the glass will help the medicinal notes integrate with the fruit. Use a classic Burgundy glass with a wide bowl to capture the complex aromatics, particularly that distinctive apothecary-like nose that makes this wine so characterful.
En Combereau sits just south of Marsannay village on calcareous clay-rich soils, positioned high on the slope at the same elevation as neighbouring Fixin's vineyards. This elevated position provides excellent drainage whilst the limestone-rich clay retains enough moisture for steady ripening. The cooler northern exposure and higher altitude preserve the bright acidity that gives this wine its distinctive medicinal and herbal character, whilst the clay adds weight and earthy complexity.
Marsannay is Burgundy's northernmost appellation in the Côte d'Or, often overlooked in favour of its prestigious southern neighbours like Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-Saint-Denis. The appellation allows red, white, and rosé production, with reds showing a distinctive herbal, earthy character that's more robust than typical Côte de Beaune Pinots but more elegant than those from Fixin. Marsannay offers exceptional value, producing wines with genuine Burgundian character without the premium pricing of more famous villages.
We'll be honest: 2020 in Burgundy was a vintage that kept everyone on their toes. A warm, dry spring brought early budbreak, then summer turned properly scorching with temperatures hitting 40°C in August. The saving grace came from perfectly timed August rains that rescued the vines from serious drought stress, followed by ideal September weather that allowed for unhurried picking. Yields were mercifully normal after several years of frost-ravaged harvests, and crucially, the heat never tipped into the jammy territory that can plague warmer vintages here.
What emerged were wines with surprising freshness despite the heat, showing ripe fruit balanced by good acidity and lovely mineral precision. The reds have more immediate charm than the structured 2019s, with silky tannins and generous Pinot Noir character, whilst the whites display beautiful richness without losing that crystalline Burgundian tension we adore. This isn't a legendary vintage like 2005 or 2010, but it's thoroughly delicious and more approachable in youth than many Burgundy vintages. The village wines are drinking beautifully now, Premier Crus are just hitting their stride, and the Grands Crus will reward patience for another five to ten years.
FAQs
What does this Marsannay taste like?
Think medicinal smokiness like an old apothecary, bright raspberry and sour cherry fruit, with earthy undertones and tea-like tannins leading to a distinctive salted liquorice finish. It's Pinot Noir with genuine character rather than generic varietal flavours.
When should I drink this wine?
It's drinking beautifully now and will continue to develop until around 2032. The herbal and medicinal notes are fully integrated, whilst the tannins will continue to soften over the next few years.
What food pairs well with Marsannay?
Classic Burgundian dishes like coq au vin work perfectly, as do game birds, mushroom dishes, and aged cheeses like Chaource. The herbal character also complements charcuterie and earthy preparations with thyme or other aromatic herbs.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 15-16°C in a wide-bowled Burgundy glass to capture those complex aromatics. No need to decant, though 30 minutes of breathing will help integrate the distinctive medicinal notes with the fruit.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Whilst it's delicious now, it will reward 3-4 years of patience as the tannins soften and the earthy character develops. After 2036, the distinctive herbal qualities may begin to fade, so don't hold it too long.
How does Marsannay compare to other Burgundy appellations?
Marsannay offers exceptional value with genuine Burgundian character at a fraction of the cost of famous neighbours like Gevrey-Chambertin. The wines tend to be more robust and herbal than typical Côte de Beaune Pinots, with distinctive earthy, medicinal qualities from the limestone-clay terroir.
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