Barolo Arione, Enzo Boglietti, 2013
Barolo Arione, Enzo Boglietti, 2013
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Nebbiolo
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2043
Enzo Boglietti has never been one to hide from controversy, and his Barolo Arione sits right at the heart of it: a modernist's take on one of La Morra's most storied crus, built with riper fruit, more generous oak, and a plushness that traditionalists love to argue about over dinner. The 2013 vintage, though, is a reminder of why this estate earns its following: a classically structured Barolo year gave Boglietti the backbone his style sometimes lacks, and the result is a wine of real substance under the velvet.
Expect dark cherry and crushed rose, liquorice and a savoury tarriness that Nebbiolo does better than any other grape, all carried by tannins that are firm without being austere. This is Barolo built for pleasure as much as contemplation, and 2013's natural structure means it has the stuffing to go the distance. We'd leave it until at least 2028, though there's no harm in checking in before then.
At thirteen years old, the primary cherry fruit has already begun folding into tertiary notes of tar, leather and dried rose, though there's still real vibrancy at the core. Expect the tannins to continue softening over the next five to ten years, with the savoury, truffle-like complexity that Nebbiolo develops with age becoming more pronounced. By the early 2030s this should be singing, with fruit and structure in genuine harmony rather than one chasing the other.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceGarnet core fading to a brick-orange rim, showing its thirteen years.
NoseDark cherry and dried rose give way to tar, liquorice root and a whisper of vanilla from the oak. There's a savoury, almost meaty undertow typical of mature Nebbiolo from a serious vintage.
PalateRich and plush on entry, more generous than many a Barolo, but 2013's structure keeps it honest with firm, fine-grained tannin and bright acidity. Red fruit turns to something darker and more savoury through the mid-palate.
FinishLong, tarry and persistent, with tannin that lingers but doesn't bite.
Overall impressionA generous, full-throttle Barolo with the backbone to age gracefully.
Food Pairings
In La Morra, this would land on the table alongside brasato al Barolo, beef shin braised for hours in the very wine itself until it falls apart on the fork. Equally at home with tajarin pasta tossed in butter and shaved white truffle, or a plate of Castelmagno cheese drizzled with chestnut honey. The tannins and savoury depth also make it a natural partner for game, think pheasant or wild boar ragù, dishes that have fed the hillside towns of the Langhe for generations.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-17°C, properly cool rather than room temperature in the old-fashioned British sense. Decant for an hour if opening now, to let the tarry, savoury notes unfurl and soften any residual grip. A large Burgundy-style glass works best, giving the perfume room to develop.
The Arione vineyard sits in La Morra, on the western side of the Barolo zone, where the soils are calcareous marl, lighter and more fragrant in character than the denser, iron-rich clays of Serralunga to the east. South-facing slopes and good elevation bring strong ripening potential, which in a structured year like 2013 translates into fruit with both richness and lift. Wines from here tend towards perfume and elegance rather than the raw power of the Barolo commune proper.
Barolo DOCG covers eleven communes in Piemonte's Langhe hills, with Nebbiolo the only permitted grape and a minimum of 38 months' ageing, 18 of them in wood, before release. The appellation is really a mosaic of distinct terroirs rather than one homogenous style, and La Morra's wines, known for their perfume and relative softness, sit in deliberate contrast to the sterner, more tannic wines of Serralunga or Monforte. It remains one of Italy's most prestigious and keenly debated denominations, not least because of the stylistic schism between traditionalists and modernists that Boglietti himself long embodied.
2013 made growers sweat before it made them smile. A late, cool spring pushed flowering back and left everyone nervy about the clock running out, then a long, settled summer and an autumn without any of the rain-related dramas that have scuppered other vintages quietly put things right. Harvest came late, particularly for Nebbiolo, but the extra hang time paid off: grapes came in with good acidity intact and tannins that had actually ripened rather than just coloured up. It's a vintage that rewarded patience in the vineyard, which feels fitting.
The results, especially in Barolo and Barbaresco, have real structure and lift rather than sheer weight — classically built wines with the sort of backbone that was made for the cellar, not the Tuesday night table. Barbera and Dolcetto did well too, keeping their fruit and freshness without tipping into jamminess. For Barolo and Barbaresco we'd say 2013 is only just hitting its stride now, with the best examples good until 2035 or beyond; the Barbera and Dolcetto are already singing and best enjoyed over the next few years.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Dark cherry, tar and rose petal, with a plush richness and firm tannin typical of a structured Barolo vintage.
Is this wine ready to drink now?
Yes, 2013 has given it enough structure to drink well now, though it will continue to improve until at least 2043.
What food should I pair it with?
Classic Piemontese dishes work best: braised beef in Barolo, truffled pasta, or game such as pheasant or wild boar.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 16-17°C in a large glass, decanting for an hour to open up the aromatics.
Is this a modernist or traditional style of Barolo?
Boglietti is known as a modernist producer, favouring riper fruit and more oak influence, though the 2013 vintage gives this wine serious structural backbone.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. The 2013 vintage has the tannin and acidity to reward patience well into the 2030s and beyond.
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