Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Malconsorts', Domaine du Clos Frantin, 2017
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Malconsorts', Domaine du Clos Frantin, 2017
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2042
Domaine du Clos Frantin is located at the heart of the Côte de Nuits in a beautiful 18th century estate in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Over 50% of their 7.3 hectares of vineyards are Premier and Grand Cru sites, all farmed organically since 2018. The domaine has the largest plantings of Vosne Romanée’s top Premier Cru “Les Malconsorts”, one of the first in line for elevation to Grand Cru status, yet it remains a fiftieth the cost of a bottle of neighbour La Tâche!
Neal Martin comments that Maison Bichot (owner of the domaine) can make “really quite delicious, complex wines that often surprise people in blind tastings when not swayed by the label.” We have always selected cuvées which offer comparable quality at a more attractive price than a number of big names - here you’ll find real value and drinking pleasure.
In 2026, this is already drinking well — 2017's generous fruit makes it more accessible than many Côte de Nuits premiers crus at this age. The primary cherry and floral character is still vivid and will remain so until around 2028-2029, at which point secondary complexity — leather, forest floor, dried fruit, iron — should begin to take centre stage. We'd expect the wine to reach a genuine plateau somewhere between 2029 and 2035, where primary and secondary notes coexist in the way only mature Burgundy can manage. After 2042 or so, the fruit may start to fade faster than the structure, so resist the temptation to leave it too long.
What the critics say:
"A fragrant and complex Vosne-Romanée with deep black-cherry and floral notes on the nose. Then comes the rich and very elegant palate, the tannins almost completely masked by the fruit, until you reach the very powerful yet polished finish."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep, translucent ruby with a still-youthful garnet core and a fine, clear rim.
NoseDark cherry and damson lead, threaded through with violet and a faint earthy note — that particular Burgundian forest-floor quality that no amount of winemaking conjures artificially. There is also a subtle spice from well-integrated oak, and just a whisper of dried rose petal as the glass opens up.
PalateRipe and generous on entry — 2017's warmth is evident — but the tannins are present underneath, fine-grained and building quietly toward the back. The fruit has the kind of density you associate with Malconsorts specifically: more brooding and structured than a typical Vosne, with energy and persistence that pure ripeness alone can't deliver.
FinishLong and layered, finishing on iron and crushed red stone rather than sweetness — a good sign for development.
Overall impressionA wine that flatters now but is clearly not done thinking about it.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this would find its natural home alongside a boeuf bourguignon — slow-cooked, wine-braised, deeply savoury — or a roast guinea fowl with wild mushrooms and cream. Duck breast with a cherry reduction is another obvious pairing, echoing the wine's dark fruit without competing with it. The Burgundians are also rather fond of époisses, their famously pungent washed-rind cheese, which sounds alarming but works beautifully against a structured Vosne with some age. Closer to home, it would be equally happy alongside a roast grouse or a well-hung rack of lamb.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at around 16-17°C — cool enough to preserve the perfume, not so cold it shuts down the mid-palate. A 30-minute decant is worth doing in 2026, both to blow off any bottle reduction and to let the tannins settle into the fruit. A large-bowled Burgundy glass is the right call here: it gives the aromas room to unfurl and focuses the wine's natural fragrance toward the nose.
Les Malconsorts sits at the southern tip of Vosne-Romanée, sharing a boundary wall with La Tâche. The soils are a mix of red clay and Jurassic limestone rubble over solid rock, giving wines more structure and grip than many Vosne premiers crus while retaining the village's signature perfume and lift. The slight easterly slope channels cool air off the plain, preserving freshness and acidity even in warm years like 2017. It is this combination of depth and finesse that has long made Malconsorts the most persuasive candidate for Grand Cru elevation.
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru is the tier just below the village's fabled Grand Crus — La Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, and the rest — but at its best, the gap is narrower than the price suggests. The appellation covers around 57 hectares of premier cru vineyard, with Les Malconsorts, Les Suchots, and Cros Parantoux among the most celebrated. Yields are tightly regulated, and Pinot Noir must be the sole grape. The wines are expected to carry the village's hallmark combination of aromatic complexity, red fruit, and silky but persistent structure — and in a good vintage from a good grower, they absolutely do.
The 2017 vintage in Burgundy arrived after a series of weather curveballs that kept growers on their toes from spring through harvest. April frosts dealt a brutal blow across the Côte d'Or, slashing yields by up to 60% in some villages, whilst those who escaped relatively unscathed found themselves with healthier vines and more concentrated fruit. The summer that followed was warm and dry, ripening what remained on the vine beautifully, and harvest began early in late August under ideal conditions.
What emerged from this challenging year surprises us still: wines of remarkable purity and focus, where the reduced yields translated directly into intensity without heaviness. The Pinot Noirs show beautiful red fruit clarity with firm but approachable tannins, whilst the Chardonnays display precision and mineral backbone that speaks clearly of their terroir. We find the whites drinking beautifully now and will continue to reward patience over the next decade, whilst the reds are starting to show their considerable charm and should peak between now and 2030.
FAQs
What does Les Malconsorts actually taste like?
Dark cherry, violet, and a subtle earthy, forest-floor depth that is very much Vosne-Romanée in character. The 2017 vintage brings generous, ripe fruit, but the tannins and iron-edged finish give it genuine structure. More brooding and densely built than many premiers crus from the village.
When should I drink this wine?
It is drinking well now, and we wouldn't fault anyone for opening a bottle in 2026 with a 30-minute decant. That said, it will reward patience — the sweet spot is probably 2029 to 2035, when the primary fruit starts to weave together with secondary complexity. Hold until 2042 at the latest.
Is this worth cellaring given the price?
Yes, and emphatically so. Les Malconsorts is widely considered one of Vosne-Romanée's finest premiers crus and a serious candidate for Grand Cru elevation. Clos Frantin has the largest plantings in the vineyard. At a fraction of the price of La Tâche next door, this is one of Burgundy's more striking pieces of relative value.
What food should I serve with this?
Roast guinea fowl, duck breast with cherries, or a classic boeuf bourguignon are all excellent. Aged Burgundy also has a long tradition alongside pungent washed-rind cheeses such as époisses. At the table, the rule of thumb is: rich, savoury, and not too spicy.
How should I serve it?
Around 16-17°C and decanted for 30 minutes. Use a large-bowled Burgundy glass to give the wine's natural perfume room to express itself. If you are drinking it young, the decant matters more than you might think.
How does Clos Frantin compare to better-known Burgundy domaines?
Neal Martin has noted that Maison Bichot, which owns Clos Frantin, can make wines that regularly surprise people in blind tastings. The domaine is organically farmed and holds significant premier and grand cru holdings. It is not a household name in the way that DRC or Leroy are, but that is partly what makes it interesting — and why the pricing remains as rational as it does.
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