Viré-Clessé, Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, 2021
Viré-Clessé, Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, 2021
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
- Organic
- Biodynamic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2030
We are so excited to present for only our second year this wonderful Domaine - Saumaize Michelin. Yet another stand out producer and even in this tricker vintage the wines really are something else! Unsurprisingly I'm not the only one enchanted by this small domaine in the Mâconnais... Neal Martin, Allen Meadows and William Kelley are all worshipping at the altar of Saumaize-Michelin, and it's time we all joined them!
Tasting the range earlier this month I was shocked by how well they stood up to the Cote d'Or, outshining even the odd Puligny 1er Cru! Allen Meadows continues to wax lyrical about each cuvees, so be sure to grab a case before they vanish in this frustratingly short vintage.
This 2021 is drinking beautifully now in its primary phase, with the tropical fruit and citrus at their most vibrant. Over the next two years, expect the exotic elements to integrate with the mineral backbone, developing more classic white Burgundy character with hints of hazelnut and honey. The wine should reach its peak around 2028-2029, when the fruit and mineral components achieve perfect balance. While it could hold beyond 2030, the fresh fruit character that makes it so appealing will gradually fade, leaving a more austere but still interesting wine.
What the critics say:
"Touches of the exotic suffuse the aromas of pineapple, white peach and citrus zest. There is excellent intensity to the delicious middleweight flavors that display fine delineation on the clean and very dry finale."
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with bright clarity and a subtle green tinge.
NoseExotic aromatics lead with pineapple and white peach, lifted by bright citrus zest. There's an underlying mineral thread that keeps the tropical fruit grounded, with subtle hints of wet limestone and fresh herbs emerging as the wine opens.
PalateMiddleweight and beautifully balanced, with excellent intensity that builds gradually across the palate. The tropical fruit flavours are precise rather than overripe, supported by a backbone of limestone minerality and bright acidity that provides wonderful delineation. The texture is smooth but never heavy, with a subtle richness that speaks of careful winemaking.
FinishClean and very dry with persistent mineral notes and a lingering hint of citrus peel.
Overall impressionThis is serious Mâconnais Chardonnay that punches well above its weight class.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this style of Chardonnay would traditionally accompany the region's freshwater fish dishes - think pike-perch from the Saône served with a classic beurre blanc, or the local favourite of poached chicken in a cream and tarragon sauce. The wine's mineral backbone makes it perfect with Chaource cheese from nearby Champagne, while its tropical fruit character complements escargots in garlic butter. Locals might also pair it with jambon persillé, the traditional Easter terrine studded with parsley and garlic.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 10-12°C to preserve the wine's freshness and allow the mineral character to shine through. No need to decant, but do give it 15 minutes in the glass to let those exotic aromatics fully develop. A classic Burgundy glass with a slightly tapered bowl will concentrate the aromas while providing enough room for the wine to breathe. If you're keeping it for a year or two, store it cool and dark with the bottle on its side.
The vineyards sit on the limestone-rich slopes of Viré-Clessé, where the soils are a complex mix of clay-limestone with fossilised oyster shells from ancient seas. The elevation and southeast exposure provide ideal conditions for slow ripening, while the limestone bedrock imparts the mineral backbone that defines serious Mâconnais Chardonnay. The combination of warmth from the continental climate and cooling influences from nearby hills creates the tension between ripeness and freshness that makes these wines age so gracefully.
Viré-Clessé was promoted to its own appellation in 1999, recognising the exceptional quality potential of these limestone slopes in the southern Mâconnais. The rules are strict: only Chardonnay, with lower yields and higher ripeness requirements than basic Mâcon. The appellation bridges the gap between village Mâcon and the grands crus of the Côte d'Or, often delivering remarkable value for wines with genuine aging potential. While less famous than its northern neighbours, Viré-Clessé consistently produces some of Burgundy's most underrated white wines.
The 2021 growing season in Burgundy started badly and got worse before pulling off one of wine's great escapes. Spring frost in April devastated vineyards across the Côte d'Or, followed by a summer that alternated between biblical downpours and scorching heat. Many producers lost 50% or more of their crop to the frost alone, then watched hail batter what remained in some unlucky villages. By August, with rot creeping through rain-soaked vineyards, even the most optimistic vignerons were writing off the vintage.
What emerged from this chaos surprised everyone: wines with remarkable freshness and purity, if you can find them. The tiny yields meant those grapes that survived were intensely concentrated, while the September sunshine saved the day with perfect ripening conditions. We find the reds show beautiful fruit clarity without heaviness, drinking with an immediacy that makes them irresistible now but promising a decade or more of evolution. The whites are particularly stunning, with a mineral intensity that cuts through their richness. Yes, there's not much 2021 Burgundy about, and yes, it's expensive, but this is one of those vintages where disaster bred greatness.
FAQs
What does this Viré-Clessé taste like?
Think exotic tropical fruits like pineapple and white peach, balanced by citrus freshness and a clean mineral backbone. It's middleweight with excellent intensity and a very dry finish.
When should I drink this 2021?
It's drinking beautifully now and will continue to improve until 2030. The tropical fruit character is at its peak currently, but it will develop more classic white Burgundy complexity over the next few years.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Classic matches include roasted chicken, fish in cream sauce, or soft cheeses like Chaource. The mineral backbone makes it excellent with shellfish, while the fruit character works beautifully with herbs like tarragon.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve chilled at 10-12°C in a proper Burgundy glass. No need to decant, but give it 15 minutes to open up and show those exotic aromatics at their best.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely, though it's also delicious now. It will develop more complexity and classic white Burgundy character over the next 3-4 years, reaching peak maturity around 2028-2029.
How does this compare to other Burgundy whites?
This represents exceptional value in white Burgundy, delivering quality that rivals some premier cru Puligny-Montrachet at a fraction of the price. It's what serious Mâconnais Chardonnay can achieve in the right hands.
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