Tenuta San Leonardo, San Leonardo, 2016
Tenuta San Leonardo, San Leonardo, 2016
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Merlot
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2045
About Tenuta San Leonardo, San Leonardo, 2016
After banging the drum for the Guerrieri Gonzaga family’s remarkable (and remarkably consistent) Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend for the last fifteen years, we relish each new endorsement and instance of critical appreciation and Jancis’ is the just the latest in a long line of articles from major critics. As a reminder...
The wines of San Leonardo are more akin to Bordeaux than Bolgheri with their balance and purity and (said the late and greatly respected Italian specialist Nicolas Belfrage) "can have an elegance-cum-depth capable of taking on the best clarets of the world". Jancis clearly agrees, noting latterly the wine’s “astoundingly consistent quality” and how each vintage is “beautifully low-key and like the most refined red bordeaux imaginable”, determining it is "Surely the most successful Bordeaux blend of Northern Italy”.
The Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner calls it “… one of the great wines of Italy… Sassicaia and San Leonardo seem like brothers separated in childhood” after James Suckling had previously made the comparison referring to San Leonardo as “The Sassicaia of the North”. The comparison is more than skin deep as San Leonardo’s owner Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga, a rare example (at the time) of a professionally-trained aristocrat-oenologist, spent time at Tenuta San Guido back in the 1960s helping create Sassicaia with legendary consultant, Giacomo Tachis, whom he subsequently employed at his own estate. The estate has received the top ‘Tre Bicchiere’ rating from Gambero Rosso for an unprecedented seventeen vintages, and has twice been voted by aggregate Italy’s top wine release of the year (jointly with Sassicaia, to continue the comparison).
Antonio Galloni weighs in saying “The Guerrieri Gonzaga’s are one of the great families of Italian wine. Over the years, the Guerrieri Gonzaga’s have produced a number of stellar Bordeaux-influenced reds at San Leonardo, many of which I have had the privilege to taste.” Meanwhile his colleague at Vinous, Eric Guido, after a 28-vintage vertical, says “If you enjoy classic Bordeaux, if you enjoy the energy and verve of Italian wine, and if you crave experiencing history in a bottle, then you should seek out Tenuta San Leonardo”. He also concludes “I frankly don’t remember the last time I found so much pleasure in tasting for hours on end”.
Currently showing beautifully integrated fruit after a decade in bottle, but the 2016 remains in its adolescent phase with primary dark berry character still dominant. Secondary complexity will emerge around 2030-2032, when tobacco, leather and forest floor notes will fully integrate with the mineral core. The wine should plateau magnificently between 2035-2045, displaying the full range of tertiary development whilst maintaining its structural integrity. Even past 2050, expect graceful decline rather than collapse, given San Leonardo's proven track record for longevity.
What the critics say:
"A wine to drink at least 10 years from now, the 2016 San Leonardo is positioned to be enjoyed in the far long term. Like its Tuscan cousin from Bolgheri, Sassicaia, San Leonardo from the mountainous north of Italy is always a wine that starts off quietly but that grows in intensity and complexity as it completes its bottle evolution. This elegant vintage reveals beautiful tones of dark berry fruit, spice and freshly milled white pepper. The wine is exceptionally balanced, fresh and long. I can't wait to come back to this vintage 10 or 20 years from now."
"Another year in bottle has added unexpected depths and dimension to the 2016 San Leonardo. It wafts up with an alluring bouquet of smoky black currant and plum skins, complicated by savory herbs, hints of white pepper and fresh tobacco. It's hard chiseled edges have formed into smooth contours now, velvety yet youthfully dense, washing mineral encased dark red and black berries across a core of brisk acidity as a combination of saline-minerals and grippy tannins add tension toward the close. This finishes incredibly long yet also structured, begging for time in the cellar, as hints of licorice and earth tones grumble under an air of inner violet florals. The potential within the 2016 San Leonardo is off the charts, yet it will require a good amount of time to come fully into focus. Bury your bottles deep."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep ruby-purple with an almost opaque core, showing the concentration of mountain fruit.
NoseSmoky blackcurrant and plum skins emerge first, followed by savory herbs and freshly milled white pepper. A decade of bottle age has added tobacco leaf and subtle violet florals, whilst maintaining that signature restraint. The aromatics build slowly, revealing new layers with each return to the glass.
PalateVelvety yet dense, with mineral-encased dark berries washing across brisk acidity. The once-hard edges have softened into smooth contours, though grippy tannins still provide backbone and structure. Saline minerals add complexity whilst hints of liquorice and earth tones ground the fruit concentration.
FinishIncredibly long and structured, with lingering violet florals and that characteristic alpine minerality that marks great San Leonardo.
Overall impressionA wine that grows in stature with every sip, demanding cellar time to reach its full majesty.
Food Pairings
In Trentino, this would accompany the region's hearty mountain cuisine - wild boar stewed with juniper and red wine, or the local specialty of carne salada, salt-cured beef served with beans and polenta. Game birds like pheasant or duck, slow-roasted with local herbs, provide perfect matches for the wine's earthy complexity. The alpine tradition of aged cheeses, particularly Trentingrana or mountain Gorgonzola, would highlight San Leonardo's mineral backbone whilst the wine's structure stands up to rich brasato al Barolo-style preparations using local Teroldego.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 17-18°C to allow the complex aromatics to fully express themselves. Decant at least two hours before serving, or longer if you have patience - this wine rewards extended breathing time. Use large Bordeaux glasses to concentrate the developing bouquet whilst providing enough bowl to swirl and aerate. Given the wine's current youth, consider double-decanting to maximise air contact.
The vineyards sit at 150 metres elevation in the Vallagarina valley, where the Dolomites meet the Po Valley. Ancient alluvial soils of limestone, clay and gravel provide exceptional drainage whilst retaining moisture during hot summers. The alpine influence brings dramatic diurnal temperature variation, preserving acidity and allowing slow, complete ripening. This mountainous terroir creates wines with a tension and mineral backbone that sets San Leonardo apart from warmer Italian regions.
Trentino Alto Adige represents Italy's most northerly wine region, straddling the linguistic divide between Italian and German traditions. The DOC allows both international varieties and local specialities, but the cooler alpine climate favours elegant, structured wines over power. Unlike neighbouring Veneto's volume production, Trentino focuses on quality, with many estates like San Leonardo proving that Italian interpretations of Bordeaux varieties can rival their French inspirations. The region's unique position creates wines that combine Italian warmth with alpine precision.
The 2016 vintage in Trentino arrived as a textbook reminder that the Dolomites create their own weather rules. Spring brought steady warmth without the dramatic swings that can rattle vines at altitude, whilst summer delivered just enough rain to keep the soils from parching in the valley floor vineyards. The harvest stretched comfortably into October, allowing the region's high-altitude Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay sites to ripen slowly whilst retaining that mountain-fresh acidity that makes Trentino whites so distinctive.
What emerged was a vintage with real backbone and personality. The Pinot Grigio shows more texture and mineral drive than the lighter 2015s, whilst still keeping that crisp, alpine character that we love about this corner of northern Italy. Chardonnay from the better producers has genuine depth without losing its mountain freshness, and the handful of serious reds—particularly Teroldego—show surprising concentration. Most whites are drinking beautifully now and will hold until 2024, though the best Chardonnays have another few years of development ahead of them.
FAQs
What does San Leonardo 2016 taste like?
Dark berry fruit with white pepper, tobacco and mineral backbone - imagine the elegance of fine Bordeaux with distinctly Italian warmth and alpine precision.
When should I drink this wine?
Not before 2030 if you want to experience its full potential. The critics suggest waiting a decade from release, and we agree - this wine is built for patience and will reward cellaring until 2050.
What food pairs best with San Leonardo?
Rich game dishes, wild boar, aged beef, or strong alpine cheeses. The wine's structure and minerality make it perfect for hearty mountain cuisine and slow-cooked red meat preparations.
How should I serve this wine?
Decant at least two hours before serving at 17-18°C. Use large Bordeaux glasses and give it plenty of air - this wine transforms dramatically with breathing time.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. San Leonardo has an unprecedented track record for longevity, and the 2016 shows all the hallmarks of a 25-30 year wine. Buy multiple bottles and watch it evolve.
How does this compare to Sassicaia?
Critics call them brothers separated in childhood - both share elegance and ageability, but San Leonardo brings alpine minerality and restraint where Sassicaia offers Tuscan warmth and power.
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