Santenay Premier Cru 'Clos de Tavannes', Domaine de la Pousse d'Or, 2022
Santenay Premier Cru 'Clos de Tavannes', Domaine de la Pousse d'Or, 2022
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2040
Pousse d'Or has long been one of the great names of the Côte de Beaune, and their Clos de Tavannes is arguably Santenay's finest calling card, a wedge of old vines they've held as a virtual monopole for decades. Santenay rarely gets the attention of Volnay or Pommard next door, which is precisely why those in the know hunt it out, and this is the wine that proves the point.
The 2022 vintage gave ripe, generous fruit without losing the backbone this site is known for, and here you get dark cherry and bramble wrapped around a firm, mineral spine.
Clos de Tavannes sits on the southern edge of Santenay, on a steep, stony slope where thin limestone-clay soils force the vines to struggle for every drop of ripeness. The higher iron content in these soils is often credited for the firm, almost sauvage character the wine shows compared with its neighbours in Chassagne. Exposure is excellent, and the altitude keeps things fresh even in a warm year like 2022, lending the wine its characteristic grip.
Santenay Premier Cru sits at the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, often overlooked in favour of Volnay, Pommard, and Chassagne-Montrachet just to the north. The appellation's Premier Cru sites, Clos de Tavannes chief among them, produce reds with more structure and earthiness than the softer, more perfumed wines of Volnay. It's a region that rewards curiosity, offering genuine Burgundian pedigree at a fraction of the price of its famous neighbours.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
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