Rosso di Montalcino, Mastrojanni, 2022

The Mastrojanni Estate is situated in the south-east corner of the Montalcino region, set apart up a dirt road from the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The wines are traditional and terroir-driven and the winery eschews the use of barriques as one might expect from such traditionalists. Having been purchased by coffee giants Illy, the estate has enjoyed even greater success in recent years and is now rated in the top 10 in the region. The vines are enjoying something of a golden age, reaching their "prime production" according to Monica Larner and revealing hauntingly profound expressions of Sangiovese.

Mastrojanni makes an absolutely stunning estate Rosso, with lovely elegant fruit, yet the structure, tannins and depth that one rarely finds at this denomination. 2022 was a warm, dry year, yet the wines already show a lot of promise.