Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Les Chalumeaux', Domaine de Montille, 2023
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 'Les Chalumeaux', Domaine de Montille, 2023
- 75cl
- 13%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Kosher
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Optimal drinking window: 2027 - 2040
The 2023 vintage reflects a year of moderate warmth with consistent sunshine, leading to steady, well-paced ripening. Although temperatures weren’t extreme, the shift to warmer nights and milder days contributed to extended growing periods. This translated into wines that are strikingly fresh, with lower alcohol levels, vivid acidity, and vibrant character—brighter and more approachable compared to recent years.
Both red and white wines achieved impressive yields, the largest ever recorded for the estate, with terroir expression and balance shining through. Whites carry the de Montille hallmark freshness and minerality, further underscored by the decision to reduce the percentage of new oak due to the larger volumes produced.
The domaine features as one of the Top 10 Côte de Beaune Red Wine, and White Wine Producers in Tim Atkin's Burgundy 2023 Special Report.
Les Chalumeaux lies on the Chassagne-Montrachet border, on shallow, stony limestone soils with excellent drainage, giving wines with a touch more generosity than Puligny's more central crus while retaining real tension. The vineyard's slightly warmer, more open exposure here encourages fuller ripening, which the 2023 season's steady, unhurried warmth has translated into ripe fruit held firmly in check by vivid acidity.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru sits within one of the most revered white wine appellations on earth, its limestone-rich soils producing Chardonnay of remarkable precision and minerality. Les Chalumeaux is among the appellation's larger and more accessible premier crus, often compared favourably to neighbouring Chassagne for its slightly broader, more immediately generous style, while still carrying Puligny's signature high-toned drive.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
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