Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or, 2023
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Le Cailleret, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or, 2023
- 75cl
- 13%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
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Optimal drinking window: 2028 - 2042
Pousse d'Or built its reputation on Volnay and Santenay reds, but this Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Le Cailleret shows the domaine's white wine credentials have real teeth. Le Cailleret sits at the top of the village, bordering Chevalier-Montrachet, and the wine carries that pedigree with a mineral drive that separates it from the plumper Pulignys further down the slope.
In 2023, a generous but balanced vintage, expect white peach and citrus pith framed by something stonier and more austere underneath. It's closed now, almost stubbornly so, and needs a good four or five years before it starts to unfurl.
Le Cailleret lies on the upper slopes of Puligny-Montrachet, immediately adjacent to Chevalier-Montrachet, on thin, free-draining limestone and marl soils. The altitude and exposure here keep ripening slow and even, preserving acidity even in warmer vintages like 2023. This is some of the most mineral-driven terroir in the village, and it shows in a wine with more tension than flesh.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru sits between the grand crus of Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet on one side and the village appellation below, producing some of the most sought-after dry white wine in the world. Rules restrict yields and mandate Chardonnay alone, but within that framework the various climats, Le Cailleret among the finest, express real differences in soil depth and exposure. Compared to neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny tends toward a steelier, more linear style.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
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