Pommard Premier Cru 'Les Grands Épenots', Domaine de Montille, 2020
Pommard Premier Cru 'Les Grands Épenots', Domaine de Montille, 2020
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Kosher
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2041
Domaine de Montille wanted their first kosher wines to set a new benchmark, so chose prestigious, discrete-sized premier cru sites that are picked at around the same time and usually early which is a bonus in a forward vintage like 2020.
The cuvées have not needed acidification or chaptalisation either and both reds are 100% whole cluster so minimal intervention is required to ensure quality. To ensure the barrels are kosher, they are filled up three times with water, left for 24-hrs each time and emptied, then refilled with fresh water and rinsed. The barrels are then inspected and approved. This process necessarily begins four days prior to harvest.
The domaine's wines are known for their great aromatic purity. They always favour balance and elegance over power and extraction. The wines are classic expressions of Burgundy, of their appellations in general and of their specific terroirs in particular. The farming methods they use contribute to this individual style, and their winemaking methods aim to avoid excessive outside influences in order to bring out the equilibrium that can be found naturally in Burgundian terroir.
De Montille has practiced organic viticulture since 1995. Today, their wines are certified by Ecocert. Additionally, since 2005, biodynamic practices have been implemented.
Pommard is an appellation that makes wine lovers dream. It is 312.76 hectares of Pinot Noir (115 hectares of which are Premier Crus) cover two terrains: south (on the Volnay side), the wines are elegant yet powerful; while in the north (closer to Beaune) the wines are silkier. However, this rule has some exceptions, like 'Les Grands Épenots', which is planted on a combination of clay and limestone that is rich and heavy. This Premier Cru initialised a request for reclassification to Grand Cru in 2012.
The words "epeneaux, épenots, epenottes" certainly comes from the same root as "épine", or spine. It is possible that there were previously patches of thorny bushes in the middle of the vineyard. Their Pommard 'Grands Épenots' is the most "Pommard" of their Pommards, showing its earthy, masculine side, which has impressive power despite the fact the nobility of the terroir gives it a certain refinement.
"From one of the two most reputed premier cru sites in the village, touching grand Cru quality. Darker, deeper cherry fruit, with tobacco, sandalwood, and hints of tamarind and star anise. Palate is both broad and linear, showing stricter, cedary tannins which are still ripe and juicy, with notes of cloves and tapenade around the red cherry and plum fruit, leading to a brightly herbal and stony finish."
Tom Harrow, Honest Grapes Wine Director
Les Grands Épenots sits in the northern part of Pommard, closer to Beaune, on a combination of clay and limestone that is notably rich and heavy — giving the wine more structure and depth than many of its neighbours. The soils retain moisture well, which slows ripening and builds concentration without sacrificing freshness. At around 250-300 metres elevation on a gentle east-facing slope, the vineyard benefits from good morning sun and afternoon shelter. It is this particular combination of geology and exposure that prompted a reclassification request to Grand Cru status in 2012.
Pommard is one of Burgundy's most recognisable red wine villages, covering just over 312 hectares of Pinot Noir between Volnay to the south and Beaune to the north. It has a reputation for producing the most robust, structured reds on the Côte de Beaune — earthy, firm, and age-worthy in a way that can surprise people expecting the elegance of Volnay. Of its 115 hectares of premier cru land, Les Rugiens and Les Épenots are the two most celebrated sites, long considered to punch above their official classification. No grand crus exist within the appellation, which only adds to the intrigue around its finest plots.
We'll be honest: 2020 in Burgundy was a vintage that kept everyone on their toes. A warm, dry spring brought early budbreak, then summer turned properly scorching with temperatures hitting 40°C in August. The saving grace came from perfectly timed August rains that rescued the vines from serious drought stress, followed by ideal September weather that allowed for unhurried picking. Yields were mercifully normal after several years of frost-ravaged harvests, and crucially, the heat never tipped into the jammy territory that can plague warmer vintages here.
What emerged were wines with surprising freshness despite the heat, showing ripe fruit balanced by good acidity and lovely mineral precision. The reds have more immediate charm than the structured 2019s, with silky tannins and generous Pinot Noir character, whilst the whites display beautiful richness without losing that crystalline Burgundian tension we adore. This isn't a legendary vintage like 2005 or 2010, but it's thoroughly delicious and more approachable in youth than many Burgundy vintages. The village wines are drinking beautifully now, Premier Crus are just hitting their stride, and the Grands Crus will reward patience for another five to ten years.

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