Pommard 'Les Cras', Domaine de Montille, 2020
Pommard 'Les Cras', Domaine de Montille, 2020
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
- Biodynamic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2040
Our visits to de Montille get (thankfully) longer each year as we continue to deepen our relationship with Etienne, Brian and the team.
We can’t think of another address in Burgundy that has such strength in its domaine whites and Cote de Beaune reds (and the highly sought after Vosne Romanée ‘Malconsorts’ cherry on top) so we are delighted to carry a good selection from across their portfolio.
The 2020 vintage, with its favourable growing conditions, has produced a wine that promises both early enjoyment and significant aging potential. The robust and structured nature of this Pommard pairs well with equally substantial and flavourful dishes, such as grilled venison, game, and hard, nutty cheeses.
Currently showing its primary fruit beautifully, this wine should integrate and develop complexity over the next 3-4 years as the whole bunch component settles and melds with the fruit. The high acidity will preserve freshness while allowing secondary savoury notes to emerge around 2030. It should reach full maturity between 2032-2038, when the fruit and structure achieve perfect balance, then hold that plateau well into the 2040s given de Montille's track record for longevity.
What the critics say:
"A small cuvée of 5 barrels which has recently been racked after a late malolactic. One third whole bunch. Intense clean purple, and deliciously perfumed, well balanced, the fruit goes right through to the end, then higher acidity. Brian trying to keep it fresh and bright, not rustic. ****"
Tasting Notes
AppearanceIntense, clean purple with good depth and clarity.
NosePerfumed and bright with dark cherry and violet lifting from the glass. There's a freshness here that keeps the aromatics dancing rather than brooding. The whole bunch component adds a subtle spice without overwhelming the pure fruit.
PalateThe fruit drives right through the middle palate with impressive persistence and energy. Structured but not heavy, with that higher acidity Brian Sieve mentions keeping everything lively and focused. The tannins have grip without being harsh, supporting rather than dominating the wine's natural flow.
FinishLong and clean with the fruit echoing through to the end, lifted by that bright acidity.
Overall impressionThis is Pommard with its best foot forward: powerful but not rustic, structured but not heavy.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this style of Pommard would traditionally accompany the region's heartier dishes: coq au vin made with the same red wine, beef bourguignon slow-cooked until tender, or wild boar stewed with juniper and red wine. Local charcuterie, particularly the garlicky saucisson sec, makes an excellent match, as do the region's washed-rind cheeses like Époisses when it's not too ripe. Game birds like pheasant or duck, simply roasted with herbs, let both the wine's fruit and structure shine.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-17°C to let the aromatics express themselves fully. Decant for 30-45 minutes to allow the wine to open up, though it's not essential given its current approachability. Use Burgundy bowls rather than Bordeaux glasses to capture those perfumed aromatics that make this wine so appealing. If you're drinking it young, a brief decant will help integrate any remaining whole bunch influence.
Les Cras sits on the lower slopes of Pommard's hillsides, on clay-limestone soils with good drainage. The vineyard's east-southeast exposure captures morning sun while avoiding the harshest afternoon heat. These cooler conditions help preserve the natural acidity that keeps de Montille's Pommard fresh rather than rustic, allowing the intense fruit to shine through without losing structure.
Pommard is Burgundy's most robust village appellation, known for powerful, structured Pinot Noirs that can age for decades. Unlike its neighbour Volnay, which trades in elegance, Pommard builds wines with backbone and grip. The best climats like Les Cras produce wines that balance this natural power with finesse, offering both immediate appeal and long-term cellaring potential.
We'll be honest: 2020 in Burgundy was a vintage that kept everyone on their toes. A warm, dry spring brought early budbreak, then summer turned properly scorching with temperatures hitting 40°C in August. The saving grace came from perfectly timed August rains that rescued the vines from serious drought stress, followed by ideal September weather that allowed for unhurried picking. Yields were mercifully normal after several years of frost-ravaged harvests, and crucially, the heat never tipped into the jammy territory that can plague warmer vintages here.
What emerged were wines with surprising freshness despite the heat, showing ripe fruit balanced by good acidity and lovely mineral precision. The reds have more immediate charm than the structured 2019s, with silky tannins and generous Pinot Noir character, whilst the whites display beautiful richness without losing that crystalline Burgundian tension we adore. This isn't a legendary vintage like 2005 or 2010, but it's thoroughly delicious and more approachable in youth than many Burgundy vintages. The village wines are drinking beautifully now, Premier Crus are just hitting their stride, and the Grands Crus will reward patience for another five to ten years.
FAQs
What does this Pommard taste like?
Perfumed and bright with dark cherry fruit, structured but not heavy, with the fresh acidity keeping everything lively rather than rustic.
When should I drink this wine?
It's approachable now but will reward patience. Drink from 2028 onwards for full complexity, with the best drinking window from 2032-2042.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Think substantial dishes: grilled venison, game birds, beef bourguignon, or aged hard cheeses. The wine's structure can handle rich, flavourful food.
Should I decant this wine?
A 30-45 minute decant will help it open up, especially if drinking young, but it's not essential. Serve at 16-17°C in Burgundy bowls.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. This is built for aging with its structure and acidity, and should develop beautiful complexity over the next 15-20 years.
How does this compare to other Pommard wines?
This shows Pommard at its most refined: powerful but not rustic, with de Montille's signature freshness preventing it from becoming heavy or overly structured.

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