Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine de Rochegrès, 2022
Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine de Rochegrès, 2022
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Gamay
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2031
Albert Bichot’s skill in the Cote d’Or is clearly on display here, and Rochegrès’ Moulin-à-Vent is up there with the best from appellation, invariably showing finesse and purity, with excellent fruit concentration and focus.
Currently in its primary phase with those vivid red fruits dominating, but the firm tannins suggest this wine will reward patience over the next two years. By 2028, we expect the granite minerality to integrate more fully with the fruit, creating the secondary complexity that makes aged Moulin-à-Vent so compelling. The wine should reach its peak around 2029, when the tannins will have softened enough to let the 80-year-old vine complexity shine through. Given the vintage's concentration and the granite's preserving influence, this should hold beautifully until 2031 before beginning its gentle decline.
What the critics say:
"A very dense purple, almost opaque. Rich and punchy, might this be overdone? The palate says no. Super-succulent but more in a vivid red fruit than black, good grains of tannins, a little point of acidity and fine length. Stays with you. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted: October 2023. ****."
"Semi-carbonic maceration combined with 100% destemmed fruit. Beaujolais crus are coming into their own, according to technical director Matthieu Mangenot. 80-year-old Gamay vines on granite rock – extraordinary-looking apparently! 50% is aged for 8 months in 350-litre barrels (20% new). Bottled 7 September 2023. Notably high alcohol, at just over 14%. Polished, serious. Really complete and refreshing for quite long ageing. Still quite firm tannins on the end."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDense purple colour, almost opaque in the glass with impressive concentration.
NoseRich and punchy with vivid red fruit leading the charge rather than darker black fruit. The granite soils contribute a mineral backbone that lifts the fruit expression. Semi-carbonic maceration adds freshness despite the wine's obvious weight and concentration.
PalateSuper-succulent with remarkable fruit intensity, supported by good grains of tannin that provide structure without heaviness. A bright point of acidity keeps everything fresh and focused. The 14% alcohol is well-integrated, adding richness without heat.
FinishFine length that stays with you, showing the mineral persistence that marks serious Moulin-à-Vent.
Overall impressionThis captures exactly what we love about top-tier Beaujolais: serious structure married to irresistible fruit charm.
Food Pairings
In Beaujolais, this would be the wine for Sunday lunch with coq au vin – the local Bresse chicken braised in red wine with lardons and mushrooms. We find it pairs beautifully with the region's charcuterie, particularly the coarse terrines and rillettes served in Lyon's famous bouchons. The granite-driven minerality makes it a natural match for the area's goat cheeses, while the wine's structure can handle heartier fare like beef bourguignon or wild boar stew. Local vignerons often serve it alongside simple grilled sausages with mustard – the wine's intensity elevates even humble bistro fare.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 15-16°C to let the fruit expression shine while maintaining the wine's structural integrity. We recommend decanting for 30-45 minutes to soften those firm tannins and allow the granite minerality to emerge. Use Burgundy glasses rather than large Bordeaux bowls – the smaller opening concentrates the vivid red fruit aromatics. This wine benefits from a gentle opening rather than aggressive aeration.
The vineyards sit on the pink granite soils that define Moulin-à-Vent, creating what locals call the most Burgundian of all Beaujolais crus. This decomposed granite provides excellent drainage while forcing the old Gamay vines to dig deep, concentrating flavours and adding a distinctive mineral structure. The granite's influence is unmistakable – it's what transforms Gamay from a light, fruity wine into something with real backbone and ageing potential. The 80-year-old vines contribute an intensity and complexity that younger plantings simply cannot match.
Moulin-à-Vent is the most structured and age-worthy of the ten Beaujolais crus, earning its nickname as the 'King of Beaujolais'. The appellation's pink granite soils create wines that are closer in style to Burgundy than to typical Beaujolais, with firm tannins and the ability to age for a decade or more. Unlike its neighbours Fleurie or Chiroubles, Moulin-à-Vent demands patience – these are wines built for the cellar. The appellation rules require 100% Gamay, but the granite transforms this usually light grape into something with real gravitas and mineral complexity.
The 2022 vintage in Beaujolais arrived after a season that kept vignerons on their toes from start to finish. Spring brought worrying frosts that threatened the budding vines, whilst summer delivered punishing heat and drought that had producers scrambling to preserve what fruit remained. By harvest time in late August and early September, yields were dramatically reduced across the region, but what survived the gauntlet showed remarkable concentration.
What emerged from this trial by fire were wines of surprising intensity and structure for Beaujolais, with Gamay displaying a more serious, age-worthy character than we typically see from the region. The Crus in particular have produced bottles with real backbone and depth, though they've traded some of that immediate, gulpable charm that makes Beaujolais so irresistible. We're drinking the village wines now with great pleasure, but the better Crus want another year or two to show their true colours. This isn't a vintage for immediate gratification, but patience will be rewarded.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Dense and structured with vivid red fruit flavours, granite minerality, and firm tannins. Think serious Gamay with real backbone rather than light Beaujolais.
When should I drink this wine?
It's approachable now but those firm tannins suggest waiting until 2027-2028 for optimal drinking, with the wine holding beautifully until 2030.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Perfect with coq au vin, charcuterie, or grilled meats. The structure can handle heartier fare like beef bourguignon or even roasted game.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 15-16°C in Burgundy glasses after decanting for 30-45 minutes to soften the tannins and allow the granite minerality to emerge.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. This is built for ageing and will develop beautiful secondary complexity over the next 3-4 years while maintaining its distinctive granite-driven character.
How does this compare to other Beaujolais?
This is Moulin-à-Vent at its most serious – much more structured than Fleurie or Chiroubles, with granite soils creating wine closer to Burgundy in style than typical Beaujolais.
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