Meursault Premier Cru Charmes, Domaine Ballot Millot, 2021

Charles points to the very damp winter and spring providing sufficient ground reserves of water to combat the relentless summer heat, giving perfect quality, pure fruit, free from rot and with surprisingly good acidity and freshness.

Whilst Meursault’s historically drier soils than Puligny and Chassagne have tended to result in bigger, more opulent wines, the increasing preference amongst the new generation of growers for earlier harvests, more reduction, less battonage, and less and bigger new oak barrels, really help to preserve freshness, elegance and tension.

I found Charles’ wines this year amongst the most satisfying whites tasted, rich and intense, but with an opulence supported by a good vein of balancing acidity and mineral depths.