Meursault Les Criots, Domaine du Pavillon, 2020

Domaine du Pavillon is the Meursault estate owned by Maison Albert Bichot, overhauled from 2017 under Fabrice Rousselle and biodynamic consultant François Chidaine's guidance, and Les Criots is one of its quieter triumphs. This is a village-level wine but farmed and vinified with a precision that nudges it towards something grander, all stony tension and understated depth rather than the broad, buttery Meursault of old stereotype.

Expect lemon curd, white flowers, and that flinty, wet-stone character Meursault does so well, with a gentle oak warmth in the background rather than the foreground. It drinks well now but has the spine to hold for a decade, so there's no rush.