Mercurey Rouge Premier Cru 'Les Champs Martin', Domaine d'Aubigny, 2024
Mercurey Rouge Premier Cru 'Les Champs Martin', Domaine d'Aubigny, 2024
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2038
"70% whole bunch. Dense, dark-fruited and structured, with grip and real presence."
Stewart Pryce, Honest Grapes Wine Club Manager
Domaine d’Aubigny is one of those Burgundian stories that sounds made up, but isn’t. Founded in 1132 as a métairie of the Abbaye de Mézières, the estate predates Clos de Vougeot and now sits quietly in the hills above Rully, hiding one of the largest enclosed vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise. The single clos is so vast it spans multiple appellations, which neatly explains why “Clos” will never appear on the label, bureaucracy remains undefeated.
Since taking over in 2021, Kwame Onwuachi and his partners have rebuilt the domaine as a fully organic, mixed farm. High-trained vines, grassed rows, on-site livestock and total nitrogen autonomy all feed into a thoughtful, low-intervention approach. Trained in Beaune after a previous life in San Francisco tech, Kwame brings both discipline and ambition. The wines are still finding their voice, but the direction is clear, and the best bottles here are already genuinely impressive.
At the time of writing, in 2026, the wine is still finding its feet, with bright primary fruit and tannins that need a little time to knit together. By 2028 or so, that fruit will soften and the savoury, earthy secondary notes will emerge. It should hit a lovely plateau of complexity between 2030 and 2036, before gradually fading into something gentler and more autumnal beyond that.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceMedium ruby with a youthful, violet-tinged rim.
NoseBright red cherry and dark plum sit alongside a savoury, peppery lift and a faint whiff of damp earth. There's a subtle oak spice in the background, well integrated rather than dominant.
PalateSilky but structured, with fine-grained tannins and a vein of mineral freshness running through the dark fruit. The mid-palate has real weight for the appellation without ever feeling heavy.
FinishLong, stony, and gently savoury, with the tannins lingering just enough to suggest patience will pay off.
Overall impressionA serious, honest Mercurey that rewards a little cellar time.
Food Pairings
Around Mercurey, this is the wine you'd find on the table with jambon persillé or a simple coq au vin, the acidity cutting through richer, slow-cooked dishes. Local Burgundian classics like boeuf bourguignon are the obvious match, but it's equally happy alongside roast guinea fowl or a well-aged Comté. The savoury, earthy notes make it a natural partner for mushroom-based dishes too, particularly anything built around wild girolles in autumn.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at a cool 15-16°C rather than full room temperature, which will only blur the fruit. A short decant of 20-30 minutes will do it good while it's young, though this isn't essential once it's had a year or two in bottle. A Burgundy glass with a generous bowl will do the aromatics justice.
Les Champs Martin sits on the classic Mercurey mix of limestone and clay, with the vines benefiting from a favourable mid-slope exposure that catches good sun while retaining the freshness the appellation is known for. The soils here impart a firm, mineral backbone to the wine, while the clay content gives enough weight to the mid-palate to avoid any leanness.
Mercurey is the largest and arguably most reliable of the Côte Chalonnaise appellations, sitting just south of the Côte de Beaune and producing predominantly red wines from Pinot Noir. Its Premier Cru vineyards, of which Les Champs Martin is one, offer a noticeably firmer structure and greater ageing potential than village-level Mercurey. Compared to its grander northern cousins, it trades a little finesse for sturdier tannins and earthier, more rustic charm, and represents some of the best value serious Pinot Noir in Burgundy today.
The 2024 growing season in Burgundy was, frankly, a test of nerve. A wet spring brought significant mildew pressure, and vignerons who stayed sharp in the vineyard — working fast, keeping canopies open, reducing yields where necessary — came out the other side with something worth talking about. Summer brought warmer, drier conditions that helped the fruit recover composure, and harvest arrived broadly on the later side, with growers picking carefully to find phenolic ripeness without sacrificing freshness. Quantity was down across much of the Côte, which concentrates minds as much as it concentrates wine.
What emerged is a vintage that rewards those who put the work in. The Pinots we have tasted carry real precision and translucency — not because they are light, but because the acidity is lively and the fruit unforced. Chardonnays from the Côte de Beaune look particularly promising: taut, mineral, with genuine length. This is not a vintage to panic-open. Most village and premier cru reds want three to five years at minimum, with the better appellations drinking well until 2035 and beyond. The whites are more approachable now, though the best will reward patience too.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Bright cherry and dark plum fruit with a savoury, peppery edge, silky tannins and a stony, mineral finish.
When should I drink this wine?
It's still young. Give it until 2027-2028 to soften, and it will drink beautifully until 2038.
What food should I pair it with?
Classic Burgundian fare such as coq au vin, roast guinea fowl, or dishes built around wild mushrooms.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 15-16°C in a Burgundy glass. A short 20-30 minute decant is worthwhile while it's young.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Yes, Premier Cru Mercurey like this rewards a few years of patience, developing earthy, savoury complexity well into the 2030s.
How does this compare to other Burgundy appellations?
Mercurey offers sturdier, earthier Pinot Noir than the Côte de Beaune at a fraction of the price, making it one of Burgundy's best-value serious reds.
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