Mercurey Blanc Premier Cru 'Les Veleys', Domaine François Raquillet, 2022
Mercurey Blanc Premier Cru 'Les Veleys', Domaine François Raquillet, 2022
- 75cl
- 13%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2032
Who is the greatest, under-the-radar producer in Burgundy? There are a handful of growers in the Côte-d'Or who might deserve that title, but looking further south to Mercurey, one Domaine that is crafting incredible, thought-provoking wines is Francois Raquillet. With scores that rank alongside a top producer's Côte-d'Or 1er Crus, these are wines that merit a place in any serious Burgundy lover's cellar.
Features as one of the Top 10 Côte Chalonnaise Producers in Tim Atkin's Burgundy 2022 Special Report.
Widely considered the best producer of the village (and among the leaders of the region), Francois has been harvesting his 12ha (8 planted to red and 4 to white) of increasingly old vines, some 70 years+, at the end of August for the last six years so is far less concerned by climate change than many Côte d’Or growers to the north. In fact the Chalonnais has been a beneficiary of the hotter, drier weather as it has helped reduce yields, and increase concentration and ripeness in the grapes, ultimately leading to richer, more gourmand, and frankly much better wines.
The 2022 is drinking beautifully now, showing primary citrus and floral character with emerging mineral complexity. Over the next 2-3 years, we expect the oak to integrate further while secondary honeyed and nutty flavours develop. The wine should reach its peak around 2028-2030, when the minerality will be most pronounced and the texture at its silkiest. While it may hold for a few years beyond 2032, the delicate fruit character that makes it so appealing now will gradually fade, leaving primarily mineral and secondary flavours.
What the critics say:
"A more floral and more elegant nose is comprised by notes of citrus confit, acacia blossom and a dollop of wood toast. There is a more attractive and finer texture to the medium-bodied flavors that also flash evident minerality on the balanced and notably drier if not really austere finale. This is a quality Mercurey blanc and worth a look."
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with brilliant clarity and a hint of green at the rim.
NoseElegant and floral with acacia blossom leading, followed by citrus confit and a subtle touch of oak toast. There's an underlying minerality that speaks to the limestone terroir, lifting the aromatics with each swirl of the glass.
PalateMedium-bodied with fine, silky texture that immediately impresses with its refinement. The citrus confit richness is balanced by evident minerality that runs through the wine like a thread. The finish turns notably dry without being austere, showing excellent balance and integration.
FinishClean and mineral-driven with persistent length and a hint of chalky texture.
Overall impressionThis is quality Mercurey blanc that punches well above its weight class.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this style of mineral-driven white would traditionally accompany escargots de Bourgogne with garlic and parsley butter, the wine's acidity cutting through the richness beautifully. Local chefs pair it with pike-perch from the Saône river, simply prepared with beurre blanc, or the region's famous coq au vin blanc where the same wine used in cooking complements the dish. Chaource or young Chabichou goat cheese from nearby regions would be perfect, as would the classic jambon persillé, where the wine's minerality balances the rich, herb-flecked terrine.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 10-12°C, slightly warmer than basic white Burgundy to allow the complexity to shine. No decanting required, but do let it breathe in the glass for 10-15 minutes after opening. Use a proper Burgundy white wine glass with a generous bowl to concentrate the delicate aromatics. This wine will improve over several hours once opened, so don't rush it.
Les Veleys is a premier cru vineyard in Mercurey with limestone-clay soils that provide excellent drainage while retaining enough moisture for the old vines. The Côte Chalonnaise benefits from a slightly warmer climate than the Côte-d'Or to the north, which has become an advantage in recent years. The combination of old vines, optimal harvest timing, and terroir that naturally limits yields creates wines of remarkable concentration and mineral precision.
Mercurey is the largest and most important appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise, producing both red and white wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay respectively. The premier cru vineyards like Les Veleys represent the finest sites, often on slopes with ideal exposure and limestone-rich soils. While historically overshadowed by the famous Côte-d'Or, Mercurey offers exceptional value with many producers now crafting wines that rival their northern neighbours at significantly lower prices.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Elegant and floral with citrus confit, acacia blossom, and distinctive minerality. The texture is fine and silky with a clean, dry finish that speaks to serious winemaking.
When should I drink this wine?
Perfect now through 2032. It's showing beautifully at four years old and will develop more complexity over the next few years before reaching its peak around 2028-2030.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Classic Burgundian dishes like escargots, pike-perch with beurre blanc, or coq au vin blanc. Also excellent with goat cheese, shellfish, or roasted chicken with herbs.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 10-12°C in proper white Burgundy glasses. Let it breathe for 10-15 minutes after opening to allow the aromatics to develop fully.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. While delicious now, it will reward patience and develop greater complexity over the next 4-6 years. The mineral structure suggests it will age gracefully.
How does this compare to Côte-d'Or white Burgundy?
This punches well above its weight class, scoring alongside top Côte-d'Or premier crus but at a fraction of the price. It offers similar elegance and mineral precision with excellent value.
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