Mas de Daumas Gassac, Blanc, 2019

"Heavy bottle. These guys are a bit insane. Look at those grape varieties. Tangy nose, like yogurt stirred through with raw dark honey. Very, very floral on the palate – so much so that you almost don’t notice the weight and complexity, the focus and drive. A coiled spring of acidity through fruit that shimmers through the spectrum from English orchard to tropical and back again. Morello cherries, grapefruit, mango, green apples, greengage, white peach. And then, just as you get distracted by all the mouth-watering fruit, the spice starts to filter through, from back to front: white pepper, black pepper, clove, fennel seed. It builds and builds. Like a Mozart symphony, an edge of anger under the beauty. Clenched, taut, hard bones under the riffs and ripples of pretty fruit. This needs way more time to really be what it is. (TC)"

" A full-bodied white with aromas of apricot, honeysuckle, stewed pear, cooked lemon and herbs. Some salted-almond notes. Rich and waxy with bright acidity and concentrated, exotic layers. Long and opulent. Blend of 36% viognier, 24% petit manseng, 22% chardonnay and 18% chenin. Drink now."