Domaine Stéphane Ogier, Côte-Rôtie 'Mes Grands Lieux', 2016

"Still reductive at this stage, the 2016 Mes Grands Lieux stands out as one of the most inherently complex, delicate and perfumed wines of the vertical tasting. It unwinds slowly in the glass, revealing aromas of dark berries, rose, timut pepper, mocha, tapenade and mulberries. Full-bodied yet remarkably poised, it is dense and deep, built around a multidimensional core of fruit framed by filigreed tannins and energized by incisive acidity, extending into a long, ethereal and seemingly endless finish. Here, acidity plays a defining role, conferring both lift and finesse while ensuring the wine’s capacity to age gracefully for two decades or more."

"2016 Mes Grands Lieux, a glorious tapestry of interwoven Côte-Rôtie lieux-dits (parcels of vines), sensitively oaked and then matured in bottle in Stéphane’s cellar for 10 years before release. When you combine 16% Leyat, with 15% Lancement, 12% But-de-Mont, 12% Montmain, 10% Le Champon, 9% La Viallière, 7% Fongeant, 6% Cognet, 5% Côte Bodin, 5% Côte Rozier and 3% Bertholon, you stand an outside chance of making an interesting wine. If you are Stéphane Ogier, you are likely to fashion a masterpiece. It smells luxurious and velvety, while tasting complete, superbly honed, with no elements missing or pushed too hard. This is a regal creation with wide appeal, given it ticks the classic box while showing stunning flair and modern understanding. There is tension on the finish, but no obvious tannins lingering around, spoiling the final fruit fanfare. This is a sensational wine, and I immediately awarded it a mighty score in my notes."

"Gorgeous fragrance on the nose, so softly and gently perfumed - fragrant with floral roses and violets and ripe, almost sweetly-scented strawberries with a hint of Black Forest Gateau too. Succulent and grippy, this takes hold with super fine tannins that give a powdery sensation on the palate with crunchy red berry fruit. Acidity is perfect, lifting the fruit giving tension and zing as well as elongating the expression. There’s lift but no lacking in power or push. Finessed, elegant and totally delicious. Juicy and moreish, there’s a feeling of utter confidence but no showing off. Authentic and you get a feeling this is clear representation of what this wine/vineyard can do even in conditions of drought and high temperatures. 3.60pH. Ageing 12 months in 50% new and 50% one-year-old French oak barrels."