Clemens Busch, Marienburg Kabinett Riesling, 2023
Clemens Busch, Marienburg Kabinett Riesling, 2023
- 75cl
- 7.5%
- Dessert
- Riesling
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Vegetarian
- Vegan
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2040
The Marienburg vineyard lies in the heart of Germany’s Mosel region, one of the world’s most distinctive Riesling terroirs. This steep, south-facing site captures maximum sunlight in a cool climate, helping grapes achieve ripeness while preserving the bright acidity that defines Mosel Riesling. The soils here are dominated by blue and grey slate, which drains superbly and radiates stored warmth back to the vines — contributing both tension and that characteristic mineral nuance you can taste in the wine.
A Kabinett Riesling is made from fully ripe, healthy grapes picked relatively early in the harvest, giving the wine a delicate (medium-dry) sweetness and vivid freshness. In 2023, conditions in the Mosel allowed for expressive fruit with crisp acidity and clear varietal definition — perfect for this style.
Clemens Busch is one of the most admired names in the Mosel, respected for meticulous vineyard work and a minimalist, terroir-first winemaking approach.
Currently showing its youthful primary fruit character with citrus and white flowers at the forefront, but the underlying slate minerality suggests this has years ahead of it. Over the next 5-7 years, we expect the fruit to integrate further whilst developing honeyed complexity and that distinctive petrol character that aged Riesling lovers cherish. The wine should reach its peak around 2030-2035, when primary and secondary flavours will be in perfect harmony, then hold that plateau for another five years before very slowly beginning its graceful decline.
What the critics say:
"Terrific herbal freshness is married to wonderfully succulent white tree fruit on the juicy, light-bodied palate. I love the orange blossom and Amalfi lemon aromas. The hint of grape sweetness is already beautifully integrated. Very silky finish that pulls you back for more. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drink or hold."
"The 2023 Riesling Pundericher Kabinett was partially picked in the Marienburg site and also on steep slopes on the village site of the Mosel. lts nose is all flint and smoke, with just a touch of lemon. The palate is light, charming and elegant with a most delicious, slaty citrus flutter. This is a butterfly that spreads joy with every wingbeat. The depth of citrus takes center stage, scenting everything around it with its charm. There1s so much verve and joy here, setting 47.9 g/L of residual sweetness against 9.6 g/L of acidity. (Medium)"
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with brilliant clarity and a hint of green at the rim.
NoseImmediately striking with flint and smoke leading the charge, followed by bright lemon and orange blossom. There's something almost ethereal about the aromatics, with that distinctive slate minerality weaving through citrus and white flowers like smoke through a garden.
PalateLight-bodied but intensely flavoured, with succulent white peach and citrus depth that fills the mouth despite the wine's delicate frame. The sweetness is perfectly judged, never cloying, balanced by that characteristic Mosel acidity that keeps everything fresh and vibrant. The slate minerality builds through the mid-palate, adding complexity without weight.
FinishSilky and persistent, with citrus and mineral notes lingering long after the last sip.
Overall impressionA Kabinett that perfectly captures the elegance and precision that makes Mosel Riesling incomparable.
Food Pairings
In the Mosel valley, this style of Kabinett would traditionally accompany the region's famous Sauerbraten, where the wine's acidity cuts through the rich, sweet-and-sour sauce whilst its delicate sweetness complements the dish's complexity. Local river trout, simply prepared with herbs and lemon, makes another classic pairing, as does the region's excellent goat cheese from the hills above the vineyards. We also love how Kabinett works with spicy Asian cuisine, particularly Thai green curry or Vietnamese pho, where the wine's sweetness tames the heat whilst its acidity refreshes the palate.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve well-chilled at 8-10°C to preserve the wine's delicate aromatics and crisp acidity. No need to decant; simply open and pour into medium-sized white wine glasses that concentrate the aromatics without overwhelming the wine's ethereal character. If anything, err on the side of serving too cold rather than too warm, as the wine will open beautifully in the glass.
The Marienburg vineyard is one of the Mosel's most distinctive sites, planted on precipitous south-facing slopes of blue and grey slate that define this corner of Pünderich. These ancient soils drain superbly whilst radiating stored warmth back to the vines during cool nights, creating the perfect conditions for slow ripening that preserves acidity whilst building complexity. The combination of maximum sun exposure and slate's thermal properties creates wines with that characteristic mineral backbone and smoky edge that can only come from this terroir.
Kabinett represents the most delicate tier of Germany's Prädikatswein system, made from fully ripe grapes harvested relatively early to preserve freshness and finesse. In the Mosel, Kabinett Rieslings typically show medium-dry sweetness balanced by crisp acidity, creating wines of exceptional elegance and food-friendliness. This classification demands lower must weights than Spätlese or Auslese, resulting in wines with lower alcohol and a graceful, almost weightless quality that showcases terroir with remarkable clarity.
The 2023 Mosel vintage turned out rather better than anyone expected after a tricky start. Spring brought late frosts that had growers lighting candles in their vineyards like some medieval ritual, followed by a wet summer that made everyone nervous about rot and dilution. But September saved the day with crisp, sunny weather that let the Riesling ripen slowly and completely, building the sort of crystalline precision that makes the Mosel special.
What we've tasted so far shows wines with lovely tension – that tightrope walk between ripe fruit and snappy acidity that great Mosel Riesling does better than anywhere else. The quality is surprisingly consistent across the region, from the steep slate slopes of Bernkastel to the iron-rich soils around Ürziger Würzgarten. These wines are drinking beautifully now if you fancy them young and zippy, but the better bottlings have the structure to develop for a decade or more in your cellar.
FAQs
What does this Kabinett Riesling taste like?
Think smoke and flint meeting succulent white peach and citrus, with that distinctive slate minerality and delicate sweetness perfectly balanced by bright acidity.
When should I drink this wine?
It's gorgeous right now but will reward patience until 2040, developing honeyed complexity whilst retaining its essential freshness.
What food pairs well with Kabinett Riesling?
Brilliant with spicy Asian cuisine, river trout, goat cheese, or the classic German pairing of Sauerbraten with its sweet-and-sour sauce.
How should I serve this wine?
Well-chilled at 8-10°C in medium white wine glasses, with no need to decant - just open and enjoy.
Is this wine sweet?
It has delicate sweetness that's perfectly balanced by crisp acidity, making it medium-dry rather than truly sweet - more like a gentle kiss of sweetness than a sugar rush.
Why is Mosel Riesling special?
The combination of steep slate slopes, cool climate, and centuries of winemaking tradition creates Rieslings with unmatched elegance, minerality, and the ability to age gracefully for decades.
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