Château Nénin, Fugue de Nénin, 2020 - Magnum
Château Nénin, Fugue de Nénin, 2020 - Magnum
- 150cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Merlot, Cabernet Franc
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2037
Fugue de Nénin is the second wine of Château Nénin, one of Pomerol's more quietly assured estates, sitting under the same Moueix ownership that gives it serious pedigree without serious fuss. Think of it as the first wine's more relaxed sibling: same gravel-and-clay plot, same meticulous hand, just a touch less concentration and a touch more immediate charm. In magnum, that charm only amplifies, the larger format doing its usual trick of slowing everything down and smoothing the edges.
This is Merlot-led Pomerol at its most inviting, plump and round with a savoury Cabernet Franc backbone. The 2020 vintage gave ripe, generous fruit without losing freshness, so expect a wine that's already singing but has the structure to keep going.
At the time of writing, in 2026, the wine is in a lovely, open phase, with primary plum and blackcurrant fruit still to the fore. Over the next two to three years expect the tannins to soften further and a more savoury, earthy complexity to creep in alongside the fruit. It should plateau comfortably between 2028 and 2035, drinking at its most harmonious, before gently easing into a gentler, more contemplative style thereafter. The magnum format will slow this evolution pleasingly, buying extra years of enjoyment at the top end of that window.
What the critics say:
"Very aromatic with sliced-mushroom, berry, and dark-bark aromas and flavors. Dark chocolate, too. Medium-bodied with integrated tannins and a savory finish. Structured, yet balanced second wine of Nenin. 90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc. Drink after 2026."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep garnet with a youthful violet rim.
NoseRipe plum and blackcurrant lead, with a soft waft of violets and a faint graphite edge beneath. There's a touch of warm spice from careful oak handling, never dominant.
PalateRound and generous, with plush dark fruit and fine, well-integrated tannins. The Cabernet Franc adds a savoury, almost herbal lift that keeps the richness in check.
FinishMedium length, finishing on soft red fruit and a whisper of minerality.
Overall impressionAn easy, polished introduction to Pomerol's charms, built for pleasure rather than ponderous contemplation.
Food Pairings
In Pomerol, this sort of wine turns up alongside a simple roast duck or a plate of confit, the richness of the meat matching the wine's plush fruit. Locals might just as happily pour it with a wedge of St Nectaire or Comté, letting the cheese's nuttiness play against the wine's gentle tannins. Lamb, particularly with garlic and thyme, is another natural match, as is a hearty cassoulet on a cold evening. Nothing too elaborate is required, this is a wine that wants good company, not ceremony.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-17°C, slightly cooler than room temperature, to keep the fruit lively. A short decant of 30-45 minutes will help it open up, though it's forgiving enough not to demand it. Use a classic Bordeaux glass with a generous bowl to let the aromatics develop.
The vineyards sit on the gravelly plateau of Pomerol, with pockets of clay and iron-rich crasse de fer subsoil that give the wines their characteristic weight and finesse. This is a gently undulating, unassuming landscape, with no grand chateaux skyline to speak of, yet the soils here are prized as highly as any in Bordeaux. The clay retains moisture through dry summers, helping Merlot ripen evenly, while the gravel aids drainage and adds a mineral lift to the wine's otherwise plush fruit.
Pomerol has no official classification system, which only adds to its mystique, relying instead on reputation and consistency to establish its hierarchy. It sits on the right bank of the Dordogne, neighbouring Saint-Émilion, and is dominated by Merlot, producing wines that are typically rounder and more immediately generous than the Cabernet-driven left bank. There's no grand cru ladder to climb here, just a small patchwork of producers quietly making some of Bordeaux's most sought-after wines.
The 2020 Bordeaux vintage began with one of the wettest winters on record, followed by a scorching summer that nearly broke temperature records across the region. What could have been a disaster became salvation: those deep winter water reserves carried the vines through the heat, while the dry conditions from July onwards concentrated flavours beautifully. The harvest started early and moved quickly, with most châteaux picking under ideal September skies.
We find 2020 Bordeaux surprisingly charming for such a hot year - the wines show ripe, generous fruit without the baked character you might expect. The Merlot-based Right Bank wines are particularly successful, displaying plush damson and blackberry flavours with enough freshness to keep them lively. Cabernet Sauvignon on the Left Bank delivers power and concentration, though some properties struggled more than others with the heat. Most 2020s are drinking beautifully now - this isn't a vintage that demands decades of patience, and we rather like that about it.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Plush plum and blackcurrant fruit with soft tannins, a savoury herbal lift, and a gentle mineral finish.
When should I drink this wine?
It's already drinking well and will continue to do so until around 2037, with the magnum format helping it age gracefully.
What food should I pair it with?
Roast duck, lamb with garlic and thyme, or a good French cheese like Comté or St Nectaire all work beautifully.
How should I serve it?
Serve at 16-17°C in a Bordeaux glass, with a short 30-45 minute decant to help it open up.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
It's approachable now, but the magnum format and Pomerol structure mean it will happily reward a few more years in the cellar.
Why choose the magnum format?
Magnums age more slowly and evenly than standard bottles, making them ideal for extending this wine's drinking window and for sharing at the table.
OUR GROWERS
Château Nénin
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