Caiarossa, 2023
Caiarossa, 2023
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Sangiovese
- Organic
- Biodynamic
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Drinking window: 2028 - 2038
Caiarossa is one of the Tuscan coast's most compelling outliers — a biodynamic estate near Riparbella in the hills above the Maremma that blends Bordeaux varieties with Syrah and Sangiovese to produce something genuinely its own. The name means 'red chalk', a nod to the iron-rich, mineral soils that give the wines their distinctive grip and definition. The 2023 is a blend led by Cabernet Franc, which lends its characteristic pencil-lead precision and dark herb character to a wine that feels structured but not severe.
It's a young wine that needs a little time — think of it as a sentence mid-thought, the meaning becoming clear as it breathes. The freshness of 2023 has left plenty of vibrant fruit in the glass, but there's real architecture underneath, and the finish lingers with a mineral persistence that tells you this is built to last. Drink from 2027 until around 2038.
What the critics say:
"A graceful, restrained red with aromas of straw, angelica, cloves, bramble fruit and cocoa powder. Full-bodied with cocoa flavors and elegant tannins despite their thickness and power. A firm structure well balanced by fruit. Licorice finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027 or 2028."
"The 2023 Caiarossa is a powerful, brooding wine. A blast of dark blue/purplish fruit, gravel, incense, new leather and licorice makes a strong opening statement. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2023 for at least a few years, as the tannins are rather imposing today. This is an especially somber Caiarossa."
The vineyards sit in the Colline Pisane hills at between 100 and 200 metres elevation, on soils rich in red clay, iron, and marine fossils — the 'caia rossa', or red chalk, from which the estate takes its name. The altitude and sea breezes off the Tyrrhenian coast temper what could otherwise be punishing summer heat, preserving acidity and aromatic freshness. These mineral-laden soils lend the wines a structured backbone and a savoury, earthy quality that sets them apart from richer, more opulent coastal Tuscan reds.
Caiarossa falls within the Terratico di Bibbona DOC, one of the lesser-known appellations of coastal Tuscany, though the estate typically bottles under the broader IGT Toscana designation to allow freedom with its multi-variety blending. The Tuscan coast — often grouped loosely with the Maremma — has become a hotbed of ambitious, non-traditional winemaking since Sassicaia put Bolgheri on the map in the 1970s. Unlike the more famous Bolgheri DOC nearby, there are fewer stylistic constraints here, which suits an estate as idiosyncratic as Caiarossa perfectly.
The 2023 vintage in Tuscany delivered precisely what nobody expected after a challenging start. Spring brought excessive rainfall that had growers fretting about disease pressure, whilst a scorching July tested even the most experienced vignerons. Yet August's return to more moderate temperatures, combined with crucial diurnal temperature swings, allowed the vines to regain their composure just when it mattered most. The harvest stretched longer than usual, with producers able to pick at optimal ripeness rather than racing against the clock.
What emerged from the cellars shows Tuscany's remarkable ability to transform adversity into opportunity. The Sangiovese displays a freshness we haven't seen in recent warm years, with that characteristic cherry brightness sitting beautifully alongside more structured tannins. Super Tuscans from the coast fared particularly well, where maritime influences helped moderate the summer extremes. These aren't blockbuster wines built for decades of cellaring, but rather Tuscan reds with an approachable charm that makes them dangerously drinkable now whilst still having the backbone to reward five to eight years of patience.
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Caiarossa
