Brunello Di Montalcino, Patrizia Cencioni, 2017
Brunello Di Montalcino, Patrizia Cencioni, 2017
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2038
This female star-studded cast of winemakers is an admirable family-run operation that dates back to 1989 when life force of the estate, Patrizia, decided she wanted to make Brunello. What was once a deteriorating property is now a winery buzzing with life and passion.
Their 2017 Brunello di Montalcino shows the vintage's signature richness whilst maintaining the elegant tension that makes Sangiovese sing on these Tuscan hills.
The wine opens with crushed stone minerality and dusty florals before revealing its core of sour cherries and saline-tinged red fruit. There's a pliant, plush texture that speaks to careful winemaking, structured enough for the cellar but with an energy that keeps you coming back to the glass.
Currently in its primary phase, the rich 2017 fruit is just beginning to integrate with the oak and mineral elements. Over the next 3-4 years, expect the plushness to settle into more classic Brunello elegance, with leather, earth, and dried herb complexity emerging. The wine should reach its peak around 2030-2034, when the fruit and tertiary flavours achieve perfect balance, then drink beautifully until the late 2030s as the Sangiovese's natural acidity provides a firm backbone for graceful aging.
What the critics say:
"The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is youthfully dark and inward, but coaxing reveals a bouquet of crushed ashen stone, dusty florals, sour cherries and a hint of animal musk. There’s a pliant, plush texture that communicates elegance, as saline-tinged red and hints of blue fruit flesh out across the palate. While structured, this retains energy through the finale, where notes of salted licorice, violets and a twang of tart citrus keep the mouth watering for more. The 2017 may not have the depth of the best vintages, but it is superbly balanced and should drink beautifully after only a short stay in the cellar."
"A rich Brunello, like many 2017s, but shows some form and tension at the same time, with a plum, chocolate and berry aftertaste. Hints of walnuts and cedar, too. Give it time to soften. Drink after 2023."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep ruby with garnet highlights, still youthfully dense at the rim.
NoseInitially closed but opens to reveal crushed stone, dusty rose petals, and sour cherry. There's an earthy, almost animal quality lurking beneath, with hints of cedar and dried herbs emerging with air.
PalatePliant and plush yet structured, with saline-tinged red fruit building to darker plum and berry flavours. The volcanic terroir shows through mineral precision, whilst walnut and cedar notes add complexity. Energy carries through despite the wine's richness.
FinishLong and mouth-watering, with salted liquorice, violets, and a citrusy tang that begs another sip.
Overall impressionA Brunello that balances 2017's generous fruit with real structure and site expression.
Food Pairings
In Montalcino, this would accompany wild boar stewed with juniper and red wine, or the local specialty of pici pasta with rich ragù di cinghiale. Aged pecorino from the surrounding hills makes a classic pairing, as does bistecca alla fiorentina grilled over olive wood. The wine's mineral backbone also complements roasted porcini mushrooms with rosemary, a combination that celebrates the forested landscape around this medieval hilltop town.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-18°C in large Burgundy bowls to concentrate the aromatics. Decant for 60-90 minutes to coax out the mineral complexity, as this 2017 is still showing some youthful reserve. The wine will continue opening in the glass over several hours, revealing new layers of earthy complexity as it breathes.
The vineyards sit at high altitude in Montalcino's southeast, where volcanic rock meets compacted clay (galestro) soils. This combination provides excellent drainage whilst retaining enough moisture for the long Sangiovese growing season. The elevation and aspect create significant diurnal temperature variation, helping preserve the natural acidity that gives this wine its mineral precision and aging potential.
Brunello di Montalcino demands 100% Sangiovese and a minimum five years aging before release, including at least two in oak. The DOCG covers the hills around the medieval town of Montalcino, where the clone of Sangiovese (called Sangiovese Grosso locally) develops remarkable concentration and complexity. It's Italy's answer to great Burgundy, with individual vineyard sites expressing distinct personalities through the lens of this noble grape.
The 2017 growing season in Tuscany delivered exactly what winemakers hope for but rarely receive: steady temperatures, well-timed rainfall, and a long, unhurried ripening period that stretched into October. Spring arrived without drama, summer stayed mercifully cool compared to recent scorching years, and crucially, September brought just enough rain to refresh the vines before harvest began. It was the sort of vintage that reminded everyone why Tuscany became famous in the first place, allowing each variety to ripen at its own pace rather than racing against heat stress.
What emerged from the cellars shows remarkable consistency across the region. Sangiovese developed its characteristic cherry brightness while maintaining proper structure, Cabernet Sauvignon ripened fully without jammy excess, and even the international varieties that sometimes struggle here found their footing. The wines show immediate charm but carry enough backbone to develop gracefully, making 2017 one of those rare vintages that works for both early drinking and patient collectors. Most are singing beautifully now and should continue until 2030, though the finest examples will reward those who wait even longer.
FAQs
What does this Brunello taste like?
Rich and mineral-driven, with red cherry, violet, and ashen stone notes, plus a distinctive saline quality that keeps it lively despite the 2017 vintage's natural richness.
When should I drink this wine?
It's approachable now with decanting, but will reward patience. Peak drinking will be 2030-2034, though it will remain excellent until 2038.
What food pairs best with this Brunello?
Classic Tuscan fare like wild boar ragu, bistecca alla fiorentina, or aged pecorino. The mineral backbone also loves mushroom dishes, especially porcini with rosemary.
Should I decant this wine?
Yes, decant for 60-90 minutes to unlock the mineral complexity. The wine will continue developing in the glass over several hours.
How does this compare to other 2017 Brunellos?
It shows 2017's characteristic richness but maintains excellent structure and site character. The volcanic soils give it distinctive mineral precision that sets it apart from the vintage's more opulent examples.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. While drinking well now, it will develop beautiful tertiary complexity over the next decade, reaching its peak around 2030-2034.
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