Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine de Montille, 2023
Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine de Montille, 2023
- 75cl
- 12.5%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Kosher
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2034
The 2023 vintage reflects a year of moderate warmth with consistent sunshine, leading to steady, well-paced ripening. Although temperatures weren’t extreme, the shift to warmer nights and milder days contributed to extended growing periods. This translated into wines that are strikingly fresh, with lower alcohol levels, vivid acidity, and vibrant character—brighter and more approachable compared to recent years.
"Sourced from the Champuligny vineyard in Puligny-Montrachet, this organic and biodynamic wine uses 25% whole cluster and minimal new oak (5%). The result is a bright, vibrant expression with crunchy cherry and violet aromatics. The palate delivers good acidity, concentrated fruit, and an elegant length—an exemplary Bourgogne Rouge for the vintage."
Our note
Both red and white wines achieved impressive yields, the largest ever recorded for the estate, with terroir expression and balance shining through. For reds, comparisons to the 2017 vintage are apt, showcasing elegance and precision. Whites carry their hallmark freshness and minerality, further underscored by the decision to reduce the percentage of new oak due to the larger volumes produced.
The domaine features as one of the Top 10 Côte de Beaune Red Wine, and White Wine Producers in Tim Atkin's Burgundy 2023 Special Report.
What the critics say:
"Racked before the next vintage. One third whole bunch vinification, in fact 100% on old vines and the rest destemmed. A glowing mid purple, energy and quality in the fruit. This is superb for its level, it has density throughout, dark raspberry with generosity. Tasted Oct 2024 ****"
The fruit comes from Champuligny vineyard in Puligny-Montrachet, where limestone-rich soils and excellent drainage create ideal conditions for Pinot Noir. This cooler terroir in the Côte de Beaune produces wines with natural freshness and mineral backbone. The 2023 vintage benefited from moderate warmth and consistent sunshine, allowing steady ripening that preserved the vineyard's inherent elegance and precision.
Bourgogne Rouge represents the entry point to serious Burgundy, sourced from declassified village fruit or vineyards just outside the village boundaries. The best producers like Montille treat their regional Burgundy with the same care as their premier crus, using traditional techniques and minimal intervention. These wines offer genuine Burgundian character at accessible prices, proving that appellation level doesn't always dictate quality when the grower knows their craft.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
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