Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine de Montille, 2022
Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine de Montille, 2022
- 75cl
- 12.5%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
- Organic
- Biodynamic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2032
“From vines in Puligny Montrachet, right in front of the chateau (de Puligny Montrachet), whose holdings were incorporated into the domaine’s portfolio in 2012. This is brought up in a combination of one- to three-year-old barrels. Breezy, lime-inflected nose, with pear skin and capsicum, heather honey and meadow blossoms. Bright, fresh, lightly lactic attack with firm fresh apple fruit, green and gold, and cinnamon, developing a good mid-palate intensity with impressive length and poise at this level.”
Tom Harrow, Head Wine Guru
Domaine de Montille is one of Burgundy’s most revered estates and this burgeoning family property is very much at the top of its game, producing wines of exceptional quality: scintillating, proper Burgundies, unusually across both reds and whites.
Features as one of the Top 10 Côte de Beaune Red Wine Producers and Top 10 Côte de Beaune White Wine Producers in Tim Atkin's Burgundy 2022 Special Report.
Self-confessed ‘acid freak’ Brian Sieve was especially careful with battonage and lees-stirring of the Chardonnays in 2022, to maintain freshness and verve, noting that it was not a high acid vintage. A little less new oak (not that there is ever more than just enough) and whole bunches in the reds than in the previous solar vintages, plus the gentler acid profile means the wines have a charm and immediacy to rival any vintage we’ve tasted from the domaine.
Currently drinking beautifully with primary fruit at the fore and that distinctive lactic freshness that marks serious white Burgundy. Over the next two years, expect the lime and apple flavours to integrate further whilst developing more honeyed complexity and mineral depth. The wine should reach its peak around 2028-2030, when the oak will be fully integrated and secondary aromatics will emerge. It will hold well until 2032, though the bright primary fruit that makes it so appealing now will gradually give way to more developed, nutty characteristics.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with green highlights and brilliant clarity.
NoseBreezy and lime-inflected, with pear skin and a touch of capsicum freshness. Meadow honey and heather blossoms add floral complexity without overwhelming the fruit. There's a subtle minerality that speaks to its Puligny origins.
PalateBright and fresh on the attack with a lightly lactic texture that's quintessentially Burgundian. Firm apple fruit, both green and golden, carries through the mid-palate with developing cinnamon spice. The wine builds impressive intensity for the appellation level, with genuine depth and structure.
FinishImpressive length with lingering poise and a clean, mineral-driven close.
Overall impressionThis is Bourgogne Blanc that punches well above its weight, showing proper Burgundian character with immediate charm.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this style of Chardonnay would accompany the region's famous escargots in garlic butter, where the wine's acidity cuts through the richness whilst complementing the herbs. Local chefs would pair it with jambon persillé, the traditional parsley-flecked ham terrine, or with freshwater fish like pike-perch from the Saône, simply prepared with butter and white wine. The lightly lactic character makes it perfect with the region's soft cheeses like Chaource or young Époisses.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 10-12°C, slightly warmer than you might expect, to allow the wine's texture and complexity to shine through. No need to decant, but do let it breathe in the glass for a few minutes after pouring. Use proper Burgundy glasses if you have them, or any bowl-shaped white wine glass that allows the aromatics to concentrate whilst giving the wine room to develop.
The fruit comes from vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, positioned right in front of the château, where the soils are a mix of limestone and clay typical of the Côte de Beaune. These parcels benefit from the same geological foundations as the premier cru sites nearby, with excellent drainage and mineral complexity from the limestone bedrock. The slightly cooler microclimate here helps retain the natural acidity that defines the domaine's style.
Bourgogne Blanc represents the entry level for white Burgundy, but in the hands of a producer like Domaine de Montille, it transcends its humble classification. The appellation allows fruit from throughout Burgundy to be blended, but the best examples like this one come from specific sites that simply fall outside the premier cru boundaries. The regulations require 100% Chardonnay and permit both tank and barrel fermentation, with many serious producers using it as a showcase for their winemaking philosophy at an accessible price point.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
FAQs
What does this Bourgogne Blanc taste like?
Bright and fresh with lime, green apple, and meadow honey, plus that distinctive lightly lactic texture that marks proper white Burgundy. It's elegant and poised with genuine depth for the appellation.
How does this compare to other Bourgogne Blanc?
This punches well above its weight because the fruit comes from Puligny-Montrachet vineyards and receives the same careful treatment as the domaine's premier cru wines. It offers genuine Burgundian character at an accessible price.
When should I drink this wine?
Drinking beautifully now with immediate charm, but will develop further complexity over the next few years. Perfect drinking window is 2026-2032.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Classic with shellfish, roast chicken, or creamy fish dishes. The acidity handles rich sauces well, whilst the texture complements soft cheeses and herb-driven preparations.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 10-12°C in proper wine glasses. No need to decant, but let it breathe in the glass for a few minutes to allow the aromatics to develop fully.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Yes, for a few years. It will develop more honeyed complexity and mineral depth by 2028-2030, though it's drinking beautifully now if you prefer the bright primary fruit character.
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