Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, 2018

Bibi Graetz has become something of a cult figure in Tuscany, turning old-vine Sangiovese from forgotten hilltop plots into some of the region's most sought-after bottles. His Testamatta comes from ancient vines scattered across the Chianti hills, many over 80 years old, planted on sites too steep or remote for modern machinery.

This 2018 vintage captures everything we love about Graetz's approach: maximum concentration without losing the bright mineral spine that makes Sangiovese so compelling. It's built like a Barolo but drinks like liquid Tuscany, with eight years ahead of it to develop the secondary complexity these old vines promise.