Bibi Graetz, Colore, 2022
Bibi Graetz, Colore, 2022
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2040
Bibi Graetz is one of Tuscany’s great mavericks, and for nearly two decades has been concentrating on making some of the most distinctive and exciting wines in the region.
After the initial Supertuscan revolution in the 60s and 70s with Sassicaia and Tignanello, Bibi leads another wave of pioneers. Specialising in old vine Sangiovese, his vineyards, dotted about Chianti Classico, are populated by gnarled fifty-eighty year old vines, which provide great intensity and wisdom to his wines. The diverse blend of terroirs and soil types further add to the kaleidoscope of complex characters his wines exude.
Currently showing its primary fruit character with remarkable freshness despite the hot vintage. Over the next 2-3 years, the cherry and violet notes will integrate further with the mineral backbone, developing greater harmony. Secondary complexity should emerge around 2030, with leather, earth, and dried herb nuances joining the fruit. The wine should hold its peak through the mid-2030s before beginning a graceful decline, though the old vine intensity suggests it may surprise with even greater longevity.
What the critics say:
"Perfection in sangiovese, with cherry blossoms, chalk, seashells, fine sand and violets on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with focused and poised tannins that are wonderfully integrated and rather endless. Crunchy and chewy at the end. Such presence. You want to spend time with this wine. A top selection from two vineyards Olmo and one in the village of Chianti Classico in Lamole, 60 and 88 years old, respectively. This is a wine that gives great pleasure now, but will be even better in two or three years."
"Colore is the product of old vines in the Chianti Classico hills, in Lamole and Olmo. ‘Colore is my dream from the beginning of working with old vineyards...the vineyard in Lamole is beautiful, it's THE vineyard in Chianti Classico,’ says Bibi Graetz. 2022 was a hot year and so Bibi decided to only use fruit from his north-facing vineyards. ‘The hot year gives me this material, even if it is up in the mountains, north-facing; the fruit has this kick.’ Precisely sculpted and very intense, Colore 2022 is both pillowy and bright. Dark berries, spice and blood orange are gathered up by a lingering, zesty finish. It's more closed than Testamatta at the moment, but should reveal more of its beauty in time."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep ruby with violet highlights, showing impressive concentration and youth.
NoseCherry blossoms and violets lead, followed by chalk dust and fine sand minerality. There's an almost seaside quality with hints of seashells and saline freshness. The old vines contribute a compelling depth that younger plantings simply cannot match.
PalateMedium to full-bodied with extraordinary precision and poise. Dark cherries and blood orange weave through focused tannins that feel wonderfully integrated despite their obvious power. The mouthfeel is both pillowy and bright, a remarkable balance that speaks to the vintage and vineyard selection.
FinishCrunchy and chewy with seemingly endless length, leaving traces of zest and mineral complexity.
Overall impressionThis is Sangiovese that demands your attention and rewards contemplation.
Food Pairings
In Tuscany, this would grace tables alongside bistecca alla Fiorentina, the massive T-bone steaks grilled over olive wood that define Florentine cuisine. Wild boar ragu with pappardelle, aged pecorino from the Chianti hills, and herb-crusted lamb would all find perfect harmony with Colore's intensity. The wine's mineral backbone also complements the region's white bean dishes and rabbit braised with rosemary and olives.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 17-18°C to allow the wine's complexity to unfold properly. Decant for 45 minutes to an hour, though the wine is approachable immediately. Use Burgundy-style glasses to concentrate the aromatics whilst providing enough bowl to accommodate the wine's substantial presence.
The fruit comes from two exceptional sites: vineyards in Lamole and Olmo with vines aged 60 and 88 years respectively. These north-facing slopes proved crucial in the hot 2022 vintage, preserving freshness whilst the mountain elevation maintained intensity. The diverse soil types across these Chianti Classico sites contribute to the wine's complex mineral backbone and distinctive chalk-like precision.
Chianti Classico represents the historic heart of Sangiovese production, defined by its galestro and alberese soils and elevation between 200-600 metres. The DOCG rules mandate at least 80% Sangiovese, though many top producers like Bibi work with 100% of the grape. Unlike basic Chianti, Classico demands longer ageing and stricter yield limits, resulting in wines with greater concentration and longevity.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Intensely flavoured with dark cherry, violets, and chalk minerality, plus a distinctive zesty brightness that sets it apart from typical Chianti Classico.
When should I drink this wine?
Compelling now but will develop greater complexity over the next few years. Peak drinking likely 2028-2038, though it should age gracefully until 2040.
What food pairs well with Colore?
Perfect with grilled steaks, wild boar, aged hard cheeses, or herb-crusted lamb. The mineral backbone also works beautifully with mushroom dishes.
Should I decant this wine?
Yes, decant for 45 minutes to an hour to allow the wine to open up, though it's approachable immediately if you're impatient.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. The old vine intensity and perfect balance suggest this will reward patience, developing secondary complexity over the next decade.
How does this compare to other Chianti Classico?
This represents the pinnacle of what the region can achieve, with old vine concentration and meticulous vineyard selection that sets it apart from everyday examples.
OUR GROWERS
Bibi Graetz
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