Spectator Wine Club Autumn Mixed Case

Phew, we made it! I counted them all out and I counted them all back and our full complement of intrepid readers was present and correct as we gathered for our journey home, albeit quieter and more liverish than at embarkation. Our inaugural Spectator Wine Club assault on Bordeaux had been a glorious, heart-swelling success. Having crisscrossed the region, invading Pauillac, Margaux, St Emilion and Sauternes and taking in such stellar estates as Ch. Angludet, Ch. Belair-Monange, Le Dôme, Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Ch. Pichon-Baron and Ch. Tour Baladoz, we remained at full strength with no casualties – well, apart from a couple of walking wounded who overcooked things slightly on the first evening – and there were several mentions in despatches. Our Corkscrew of Honour went to the stalwart Bob Barnett, who distinguished himself in the field, seeing off whatever bottle or magnum was sent his way while also coming top of the end-of-tour examination. It was a stouthearted performance, and I felt so proud to have him under my command. It does mean that – suffering just a tiny bit from shellshock, or rather bottle-shock – I’ve had my fill of fine claret, dry white Bordeaux and Sauternes for a while. We’ve also had two cracking claret offers in these pages over the last couple of weeks, and it’s surely time to turn our attention elsewhere.

Hurrah, then, for our mates at Honest Grapes and this encouragingly well-priced offer of wines put together especially to see you through the darkening days of autumn. There are some bargains ideal for stockpiling before the big splurge as we near Christmas, and I encourage you to get stuck in.

The 2022 Forge Mill Bush Vine Chenin Blanc (1) is an extremely easy-going example of South Africa’s favourite grape. It might not have great complexity but, produced in Swartland by the much-admired cooperative at Riebeek-Kasteel – 80km north east of Cape Town and one of the oldest towns in South Africa – it’s delightfully quaffable with plenty of lively, luscious fruit and a creamy yet fresh, mineral finish. £9.20 down from £10.20.

The 2022 Stadlmann Gruner Veltliner (2) from Traiskirchen, 30 km south of Vienna, is a lovely wine from a winery founded in 1780 and greatly admired by the likes of Hugh Johnson, Stuart Pigott and Uncle Bob Parker. Eighth-generation Johann Stadlmann has produced an exemplary GV, with fresh apple, touch of zesty citrus and a slight saltiness on the finish. £13.80 down from £14.80.

The 2022 Vega Badenes Tempranillo/Merlot/Syrah (3) is undemanding fare, and none the worse for it. A blend of grapes drawn from 20-year-old Bodegas Isidro Milagro’s many vineyards in La Rioja, it’s rich, ripe and juicy with lots of red and dark berry fruit backed by well-crafted tannins and acidity. Slosh it into jugs and serve it at long rambling lunches. £9.10 down from £10.10.

The 2022 Lamura Nero d’Avola (4) is similarly uncomplicated. From Trento-based Casa Girelli’s Sicilian vineyards, it’s made from organically grown fruit which undergoes malolactic fermentation and sees no oak, thus retaining the vibrant innate freshness of Nero d’Avola. Succulent and plummy, with a hint of something savoury, it’s charmingly gluggable. £9.90 down from £10.90.

If, like me, you’ve been priced out of Burgundy, the 2021 Horizon De Bichot Pinot Noir (5) should be right up your street. Produced by Maison Albert Bichot – one of the great names of Burgundy, founded in 1831 – using grapes from across southern France, it’s a cunning way to get a bit of Burgundian expertise at an acceptable price. With bright, lively cherry fruit, soft tannins and a touch of spice, it slips down very easily. £15.70 down from £16.70.

Finally, the 2020 Famille Vincent Morgon ‘Les Charmes’ (6) a Beaujolais of some style produced in Les Charmes (one of the six lieux dits of Morgon) by the Vincent family, based at the 15th-century Château-Fuissé, in the heart of Pouilly-Fuissé, for over 150 years. Made from 100 per cent Gamay and matured in oak, it’s traditional in style with plenty of intense, concentrated, fleshy red fruit and a slightly earthy finish. It’s ready now but will age well if given the chance. £21.80 down from £22.80.

This mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free."
Jonathan Ray, The Spectator