I got to know Markos Tsimikalis, when hosting several Greek beer tastings at his much-loved Hungry Donkey in Spitalfields a decade ago. Now, the owner of VORI, a Modern Greek Taverna in Holland Park, below he gives us the inside track on his country’s wines and has a great wine offer for Honest Grapes club members until the end of March…
What excites you about Greek wine? What should those less familiar understand about it? Why did you choose to focus solely on Greece?
“Although we have been making wine for centuries, Greek winemakers only recently (20 years) started focusing on the wealth of indigenous Greek grape varieties, nurturing them, documenting them and of course producing wine with them. Compared to the rest of the world, Greece has grape varieties that do not exist in the rest of the world and that in its own is an exciting proposition. Currently we are north of 220 known indigenous varieties across the geography of Greece, with that number steadily rising. From the more popular grapes like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Assyrtiko and Vidiano to lesser-known varieties that deliver exceptional wines like Moschomavro, Limnio, Roditis, Serifiotiko the discerning wine connoisseur has a whole new world to discover and experience."
“Being Greek, I am very proud of the wines my country offers the world. I did not see the need to focus on any other wine region – others do that much better than we ever could. Our offering is the triptych of Greek Plates, Wine and Hospitality. Each part complements the other and our dishes are all paired with specific wines in mind and vice versa. Each wine on our list has a specific purpose and pairs with flavour patterns on our food menu. The winemakers we work with share the same passion, are committed to organic and biodynamic wine growing & making, and apply their craft tirelessly 24/7. The results are truly sensational.”
What are some favourite food and wine pairings on your current menu?
“From our white wines, I am very excited about Magoutes ‘Vieilles Vignes Blanc’. The reason is this is a white Xinomavro, a grape that is known for delivering delicate, elegant high tannin reds. It’s just an explosive and elegant white wine that really goes well with dishes such as our Mastello pan-fried cheese, Garides Kritharoto, and Suvlakia. Then I really like Akriotou ‘Orivatis Wild’, a delicious, limited edition Savatiano that stands out because it is one of the few Greek wines with minimal minerality. It has a delicious creamy texture, notes of vanilla, and delightful long finish. It pairs beautifully with Manitaria - our grilled mushrooms - Lahanika - our grilled seasonal vegetables - and Tsipura, our whole charcoal-grilled sea bream."
“From our red wines, I am enamoured with Muses Estate Mouhtaro. A very rare grape that is more old school, full-bodied, with silky tannins and a lot of fruit. It goes exceptionally well with our grilled lamb, Arni, and of course our grilled bone-in ribeye - Spalobrizola. The one thought that stands out is Foundi ’Naoussaia’ 2001, made with Xinomavro - my favourite red grape. We have secured these old vintages and they are truly something special and rare. It is very earthy, with notes of spice, subliminally silky tannins that are mild, a pure joy to see it develop as it airs. Of course, pair it with our bone-in ribeye, lamb and any dish that has tomatoes, including our Greek Salad with our barrel-aged Feta cheese! We also have the 1999 vintage to be made available later on in the year - very exciting.”
Name a white and red from your list that would be a real treat for a special occasion?
“I would definitely recommend Foundi ’Naoussaia’, and Douloufakis Grand Reserve 2019, Liatiko, from reds. From our whites I would have to recommend Douloufakis ‘Aspros Lagos’, Vidiano and VSV Pure Assyrtiko 2020 from Santorini - both are stunning, elegant and unique.”
HONEST GRAPES OFFER
VORI has under forty wines on the list, which is frequently updated with new gems, all Greek, which are also available by 500cl carafe, and mostly by the glass too – to better enable trying a wide selection. Markos has a special Valentine’s pairing menu for Friday and is also planning a rare Assyrtiko flight which I definitely look forward to trying.
Until the end of March, you and your guests can enjoy a complimentary glass of either the following white or red that I’ve chosen from the list. Just mention Honest Grapes when booking lunch or dinner:
Assyrtiko is one of the world’s great white grapes and Estate Argyros Cuvée Evdemon 2020, a partially barrel-aged example, shows rich, cereal and baking spice notes alongside Santorini’s classic citrus and oyster shell aromatics, and impressive structure, complexity and mid-palate richness. VORI’s menu is full of powerful, robust flavours and this is not cowed by them!
Troupis ‘Route 111’ 2021 is an Agiorgitiko/Mavrodaphne blend, named for the road that runs between Nemea and Aigialia in the Peloponnese. The vineyards are 640m up and this shows the hallmarks of altitude, with a freshness and herbal energy to the fruit, a central line of sapid, herbaceous acidity, and light tea, bitter chocolate and liquorice tannins.
VORI Greek Kitchen
120 Holland Park Ave W11 4UA
020 3308 4271
bookings@vorigreekitchen.co.uk
Mention ‘Honest Grapes’ when booking and you and your guests will receive a complimentary glass of either the white or red chosen above.
Offer valid for bookings until March 31st, one glass of either wine per person.